Cured mullet with pickled radish

At the back of my fridge you’ll find a jar or two of pickled herring from Ikea. I always stock up when I go, it’s the highlight of the trip.I get excited about any food that is cured, pickled, smoked, preserved or fermented and although I don’t need to travel across the desert with nothing but a camel and a bag of dried meat for company, taking a fresh ingredient and through salt or smoke or just air, turning it into something longer lasting makes me feel manly, much like standing around a barbeque.There is a sharpness to pickled fish that really gives it a zing. Here, I’ve gone for grey mullet rather than the more traditional herring, for the simple reason that my fishmonger didn’t have any. And it was a great success. The radish and cucumber give a great crunch and a slightly Asian feel to the dish and the dill brings it back to its Swedish beginnings.Serves:                          4 as a starterPreparation time:      10 minutes plus curingCooking time:             curing and pickling onlyIngredientsFor the pickled radish:16 radishes, sliced as thinly as possible2cm cucumber, sliced as thinly as possible1 head of Shimeji mushrooms, sliced from the base or 100g button mushrooms25g xylitol or stevia powder70ml cider vinegar1 tbsp Mirin2 tsp Japanese rice wineA few sprigs of mustard cress1tsp toasted cumin seedsFor the mullet:2 mullet fillets (400g)1 small bunch of dill, chopped1 shallot, sliced1tbsp juniper berries, slightly crushed1tbsp pink peppercorns, slightly crushed1tsp Szechuan peppercorns25g salt25g xylitol or truvia sugar substitute4 tsp caviar/lumpfish roeMethod1. Mix together the dill, juniper, shallot, pink and Szechuan peppercorns, salt and xylitol then sprinkle half of this into a shallow baking tray or dish.2. Lay the mullet fillets on top of the salt mix and cover with the remainder. Wrap in clingfilm and put in the fridge overnight or for at least four hours.3. An hour before you want to serve, remove the fish from the fridge and rinse well then pat dry with kitchen paper.4. Mix together the pickled radish ingredients and set aside for 45 minutes.5. Serve the radish with the mullet and a teaspoon of caviar on each. Serve with a thin slice of toasted rye sourdough.

Sugar free yoghurt, cardamom and elderflower bundt cake.

I bore my wife every year with constant updates on the elder state, and my excitement and her relief peaks when the buds start to open into flowers. Pick them first thing on a sunny morning, they’ll have more flavour then.It’s such a symbol of the beginning of summer and homemade elderflower cordial makes a great addition to prosecco or just as a drink on its own. You can also lightly coat the flowers in a thin batter and make fritters or use them to decorate a pudding.I wouldn’t say it’s good for you (but what cake is?) however, using xylitol means it’s sugar free and spelt flour is so much better for you than refined white wheat flour. The low fat yoghurt works really well too, so you can pretty much enjoy this with a clear conscience. After all, a little of what you fancy is good for you.Serves:                                    8Preparation time:      10 minutesCooking time:            45 minutesIngredients125g unsalted butter125g truvia or xylitol1tsp vanilla extract1 egg250g spelt flour1tsp baking powder1tsp bicarbonate of soda2 tsp elderflower cordialSeeds from 8 cardamom pods250ml low fat natural yoghurt2tbsp orange flower waterIcing sugar and elderflowers to decorate.Method:

1. Heat the oven to 180c and grease a bundt tin.
2. Grind the cardamom seeds to a powder.
3. In a food mixer, beat the butter, xylitol, cardamom, vanilla and orange water until fluffy.
4. Beat in the egg and cordial until smooth, add the baking powder and soda, then fold in the flour and yoghurt in alternate spoonfuls.
5. Pour into the cake tin and bake for 35-40 minutes or until golden and a skewer poked in comes out clean.
6. Leave to cool for a few minutes before turning out onto a wire rack.
7. When cool, sprinkle with icing sugar, petals and elderflowers if available. If you fancy, you can also serve this with an orange or elderflower syrup.

Morning Smoothie

I tend to start every morning with a Nutribullet smoothie. I was never a great breakfast eater, but this has proven an easy way for me to get the day off to a good start. Some combinations have been less successful than others, but one thing I find is using frozen fruit makes even the greenest vegetable drink taste delicious. Just blitz all the ingredients together and drink immediately.This morning's ingredients:1 bananaA handful of kale1tbsp goji berries1 tsp vanilla extract3 tbsp porridge oats2 tbsp sunflower seeds2 tbsp chia seeds1tbsp raw cocoa nibs1 tbsp turmeric powderA large handful of frozen mango, melon and pineapple piecesAlmond milk 

Superfood salad with walnut, raspberry, miso and chia seed dressing

A salad should never be a disappointment. Especially if it’s the main event of a summer meal. This salad has so many healthy ingredients in it and is perfect for giving you an energy boost.I love beetroot’s earthy, sweet jucy crunch and it is so good for you. Pairing it here with the peppery watercress, sprouting seeds and walnuts makes a satisfying and healthy quick salad. If you’re not a fan of beetroot, try this dish as the flavour is not too pronounced.The sharp and nutty dressing brings the flavours together and elevates this amazingly healthy dish to a higher level. You can find raspberry vinegar in most supermarkets, as well as walnut oil. Serve with wholemeal sourdough bread.

Serves:                                    4Preparation time:      10 minutesCooking time:            -

Ingredients2 cooked beetrootA bunch of watercressA small bunch of radishesYuzu dressing (use lemon juice if you can’t find this)A handful of walnutsA handful of sprouting seedsA sprinkle of pumpkin seeds5cm of cucumberA few coriander leavesFor the dressing:6tbsp walnut oil2tbsp raspberry vinegar1tbsp yuzu dressing1tbsp chia seeds, soaked in a little water1tsp misoSalt to season

Method:

1. Mix the dressing ingredients in a bowl and set aside.
2. Using a mandolin, thinly slice the radish, beetroot and cucmber and add to a salad bowl.
3. Add the remaining ingredients then dress and season the salad and serve immediately.

North African chickpea and tomato stew

I say North African, but this really is a mix of store cupboard items that could be Asian, Indian, Turkish, Moroccan and Mediterranean.Chickpeas were a staple growing up and my aunt always told me they make you fart a lot. Whether or not this is true, I’m not sure, but it means that I tend to always put caraway seed in every chickpea recipe just in case.This dish really punches above its weight in flavour. It’s rich, comforting and quick to make. I served it as part of a mezze platter the other week and it worked really well with dishes such as baba ganoush, flatbreads and spiced courgette. Alternatively, eat it with cauliflower ‘rice’ or sweet potato.Serves:                         4 as a side dish or 2 as a main coursePreparation time:      5 minutesCooking time:            30 minutesIngredients2 onions2 cloves of garlicA large splash of rapeseed oil6 large tomatoes, roughly chopped2tbsp tomato purée1 tin of chickpeas1 tin of cannellini beans1tbsp berbere spice mix1tbsp baharat spice mix1tbsp cumin seeds1 medium bunch of fresh coriander1-2 red birdseye chillies1tsp caraway seedsA splash of waterSalt and pepper to season Method:

1. Fry the onions and garlic in rapeseed oil then add the spices and chilli.
2. Add the spices and cook for a minute or two.
3. Add the chillies, tomato purée and tomatoes, season, add some water and stir well. Cover and simmer for about 20 minutes then squash down with a wooden spoon.
4. Add the chickpeas and beans heat through then stir in the chopped coriander, check the seasoning and serve.

Nettle and wild garlic pesto with prawns and sweet potato

Nettles grow like mad this time of year. Now, after many childhood tears, it’s time for revenge.They have a grassy, earthy flavor that goes well in risotto or soup and if you like spinach, sorrel and other greens, you’ll love nettles. They’re also free, although ridiculously I’ve seen them for sale in a few farmers’ markets.I’ve paired it with wild garlic in this pesto recipe; it’s coming to the end of the season now it’s June so I’m trying to cram it into everything I can, flowers and all. Mix the pesto through pasta, preferably trofie or trenette, serve it with seared tuna and a tomato salad or toss it through buttery new potatoes or cauliflower. Here I’m serving it with some fresh prawns and sweet potato fries. It keeps for a couple of weeks in the fridge, just top it up with oil every so often.Wear a pair of rubber gloves when picking nettles (they lose their sting after boiling for one minute) and if you don’t have any in your garden, try and avoid picking them from areas well used by dog walkers or foxes…Makes:                          A big tubfulPreparation time:      10 minutesCooking time:            10 minutesIngredients150g stinging nettles3 cloves of garlic40g parmesan180ml rapeseed oil1 green chilli100g toasted pine nutsA handful of wild garlic leaves and flowersSalt to seasonRapeseed oil for frying180g raw, shelled tiger prawns per person1/3 of a sweet potato each5cm of cucumber1 tbsp black sesame seeds1 tbsp ground turmeric2 spring onions2 red birdseye chillies, slicedJuice of a limeMethod1.  Blanche the nettles in boiling water for one minute, refresh in cold water then pick the leaves and discard the stems.2.  Add all the ingredients apart from the oil to a food processor and pulse until roughly chopped.3.  With the machine running, pour in the oil in a steady stream until you have a fairly coarse but loose paste. Check the seasoning and add more salt if needed.4.  Decant into an airtight jar, pour over some oil and store in the fridge.For the prawns and sweet potato:1. Heat about three centimetres of rapeseed oil in a deep, heavy-bottomed pan to about 180c. For each person use about 1/3 of a sweet potato, skin and all, and cut it very finely lengthways into long matchstick chips. I use a mandoline for this with a julienne blade.2. Fry the potato in the oil and drain on kitchen paper. Season with salt, black sesame seeds and turmeric powder then set aside.3. Toss some shelled, raw tiger prawns (I use about 180g per person because I’m greedy) in rice flour and fry in batches in the oil until cooked and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper then stir through a couple of tablespoons of the pesto and toss well. Set this aside for a minute too.4. Salt the cucumber then squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Mix the cucumber, spring onion and red chilli together and season well.5. Divide the sweet potato between the plates, top with the prawns in pesto and the cucumber mix. Serve immediately with a squeeze of lime juice.

Kasha with spiced roast vegetables

This vibrant dish can be served warm or cold. Kasha, or roast buckwheat is so good for you and has a nutty taste and texture that complements the sweet roast vegetables.

What I really like about this dish is it has loads of flavour, texture and colour and is healthy too. I didn’t this time, but in future I think I’ll serve it drizzled with a basil and cumin yoghurt.

Serves:                               2Preparation time:            20 minutesCooking time:                  30 minutes

Ingredients2 tbsp rapeseed oil2 eggs, boiled for 6 ½ minutes then run under cold water to refresh2 garlic cloves150g buckwheat1 red pepper, seeds removed and cut into chunks1 fennel bulb, sliced thinlyA handful of button mushrooms, halved1 red onion, peeled and quarteredA large handful of kale, stems removed4-6 cherry tomatoes½ tsp rosewater1 tbsp chilli flakes1 tbsp ground coriander2 tsp ground cumin2 tsp ground turmeric1 tbsp toasted fennel seeds3 tbsp each of chopped coriander, chives and parsleySalt and pepper to seasonMethod1. Bring a small saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the buckwheat, return to the boil and simmer for five minutes. Drain and set aside2. Place the garlic and vegetables – apart from the tomatoes – on a roasting tray and drizzle with the oil then season generously. Roast at 220c until they start to char – about 25 minutes.3. Stir in the buckwheat, spices, cherry tomatoes and rosewater, check the seasoning and keep warm.4. Peel and halve the eggs. Divide the vegetables between two plates and serve with the eggs and chopped herbs.

Hawthorn tea

It’s hawthorn blossom season in London at the moment and while the trees are in bloom it's a great time to make fresh tea or dry the flowers for future use.

The tea has a subtle flavour and apparently is good for circulation, blood pressure and mental wellbeing. Plus it’s free.I find it really satisfying to make things from stuff you’ve grown or found so get picking. Just watch out for the thorns on the hawthorn tree.

IngredientsAs many leaves and sprigs of hawthorn flowers as you can get, without, obviously, ruining the tree.Just use one sprig per cup, no need to remove it, it looks pretty in the cup.

Spicy filo vegetable parcels

Bourek, samosa, pasty or empanada? They’re all good ways to eat a messy filling with your hands. I first had bourek in a cous cous restaurant in Paris and loved the delicate pastry and the oozing cooked egg inside. With that in mind, I’ve combined a spicy vegetable filling with the egg on top and added quorn for texture.Feel free to use minced lamb if you prefer and it’s up to you whether you make six large ones or 12 small to have as snacks. You can use quails’ eggs for these. Serve with a mint crème fraiche.Makes:                             6-12Preparation time:         20 minutesCooking time:                45 minutesIngredients1 onion, finely chopped2 cloves of garlic1 celery stick, finely chopped1 medium carrot, finely choppedA handful of buckwheat1 tsp paprika1 tsp coriander1 tsp turmeric2 bay leaves½ a butternut squash, diced1 packet of Quorn mince (approx 300g)4 medium tomatoes, chopped1 mug of water2 tbsp tomato puréeA small handful of kale leaves2 tbsp za’atar spice mix6 eggs (optional) plus one for glazingSalt and pepper to season1 220g pack of ready rolled filo pastry sheetsMethod1. Sauté the onions and garlic in a little olive oil until soft then add the carrot and celery.Season well and cook gently for five minutes.2. Add the buckwheat and toast well before mixing in all the spices apart from the za’atar then add the squash and quorn and mix well.3. Stir in the tomatoes, mix the purée with the water and pour into the pan. Cover and cook for 20 minutes then stir in the kale and cook for a further 15 minutes with the lid off. The liquid needs to reduce so you don’t end up with soggy pastries. Set aside to cool.4. Preheat the oven to 180c5. When cool, lay the filo pastry on the work surface and brush the edges of the top one with some beaten egg mixed with a little milk or water.6. Put a large spoonful of the filling in one corner of the pastry, make a well in the centre and add the egg. Sprinkle with the za’atar. Fold over into a triangle. Brush with more egg and fold again. Repeat until you have a firm parcel. Glaze the pastry with the egg, repeat with the remaining mixture and bake the parcels in the oven for about 25 minutes, or until golden and crisp. Serve with a mint crème fraîche made with a mix of dried and fresh mint.

Wild garlic risotto

Wild garlic is in full flower in late April and May, so now is the time to get it. Mine grows in the garden, but it’s easy to find in churchyards, woods and fields. The flowers are edible and tasty, as well as looking really pretty on the plate. Its uses range from pesto to soups and, in this recipe, risotto. I like to use Carnaroli rice for its creaminess, but feel free to use other types. You could even substitute spelt for the rice, adjusting the liquid and cooking time as required.Serves: 4Preparation time: 10 minutesCooking time: 25 minutesIngredients1l vegetable stock, preferably homemadeOlive oil2 garlic cloves, finely chopped4 small shallots, finely slicedHalf a glass of white wine, better still, vermouth (optional)A large handful of wild garlic leaves and a good sprinkle of the flowers2 tbsp butter2 tbsp grated parmesanA dash of truffle oil if you’re feeling luxuriousSalt to season Method

1. Heat the stock in a saucepan and keep it warm on the stove.
2. In a deep, heavy bottomed pan sauté the garlic and shallots in a little olive oil until soft, then add the rice and a pinch of salt. Stir well and toast the rice for a minute.
3. Add the vermouth if using and let it reduce right down. Add the stock a ladleful at a time, only adding another when the previous ladleful has been absorbed. Make sure you keep stirring the rice to release the starch for a creamy risotto.
4. Halfway through, add half of the finely sliced wild garlic leaves and stir well.
5. Finish adding the stock, then vigorously stir in the butter and Parmesan while shaking the pan.
6. Stir in the remaining leaves, cover and rest for five minutes. Check the seasoning; add the garlic flowers and serve.

Quick carb-free crab ‘courgetti’

This is a take on one of my favourite pasta dishes. It’s a great way to cut out carbohydrates if you're on a health kick, and it really stands out as a dish in its own right.It’s so quick to make, as long as you have a spiralizer. If not, you’ll have to slice the courgettes very finely by hand. I have a small hand-held spiralizer that only cost a few pounds and I highly recommend it.Use good olive oil, juicy tomatoes and adjust the chilli to your taste. Don’t overdo it though, this is a delicate dish. It also works very well with prawns if you prefer.Serves: 4 Preparation time: 5 minutes Cooking time: 5 minutesIngredients2 tins of crab1 large courgette½ a clove of garlicA large handful of cherry tomatoesOlive oilA pinch of chilli flakes2 tbsp fresh chives, finely slicedSalt to seasonMethod

1. Prepare the courgette and set aside for a minute.
2. Gently heat the olive oil and add the garlic, then cook for a minute.
3. Add the courgette, season and toss in the pan for a minute or two, until it starts to soften.
4. Add the crab, tomatoes and chilli flakes and cook for a further minute to warm through.
5. Check the seasoning and stir the chives through just before serving with a salad.

Delicious homemade doughnuts

The first time I had fresh doughnuts straight from the fryer was a revelation. There was a small stall between Covent Garden tube station and the market, basically a fryer on wheels. When some friends and I used to come up to London for whatever reason and found ourselves there, we would stuff our faces. They were hot and soft, sugary and delicious and felt like such a treat. Completely unlike the stodgy, cold shop-bought ones. Now, whenever possible I make my own.Cooking with the children is always good fun and baking is a really easy way to involve them. Rather than starting off with complicated savoury dishes, things like biscuits, cakes and doughnuts are great hands on recipes.Makes: 12 Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 5-6 minutesIngredients7g dry yeast5tbsp golden caster sugar230g plain flour160ml milk65g melted butter1 egg, beatenPinch of salt500ml rapeseed oil for fryingFillings of your choiceGolden caster sugar to coatMethod1. Warm the milk and add the yeast and a pinch of sugar. Leave to stand for about ten minutes until slightly foamy.2. Add the flour and sugar to a large bowl or food mixer and add the milk mixture and remaining sugar along with themelted butter and egg.3. Knead for about five minutes then cover the bowl and leave to rise for about an hour, or until doubled in size.4. Knead again for a couple of minutes then on a floured surface shape into balls and doughnuts and leave to rise for another twenty minutes or so.5. Heat the oil to 175c in a deep pan or preferably a deep-fat fryer and gently cook the doughnuts in small batches for a couple of minutes or so on each side. Don’t let the oil get too hot or they will remain uncooked on the inside and burn on the outside.6. Drain on kitchen paper and roll in sugar. When cool enough to handle, fill the centre of the balls using a pipette with your choice of filling. I think you can’t beat raspberry jam, but you could also use caramel or Nutella or whatever you fancy. I also like to drizzle them with caramel or melted chocolate and chopped hazlenuts.

Jasmine-cured mackerel fishcakes

Fishcakes are a great way of either using up fish trimmings or making fish a bit more accesible for the children.I'm a big fan of Thai fishcakes. Full of zingy flavours, and with their added prawn and no potato they are firm and can be roasted in a little oil or deep fried, as with the traditional British ones. When making the British kind, something that's really important to me is not including too much potato and not making them too large.This recipe is for fishcakes that are a bit special because they use mackerel that has been cured in sugar, salt and jasmine pearls. These are easily found in supermarkets in the tea section. The fishcakes have turmeric and spices in them to boost the flavour. Increase the quantity to suit your palate; I made these to be very child-friendly. Normally I prefer them with a bit more kick.Serve with a cucumber and dill mayonnaise or some smoked paprika ketchup.Serves: 4Preparation time: 30 minutesCooking time: 20 minutesIngredients4 fresh mackerel, filleted4 tbsp of jasmine pearls4 tbsp caster sugar4 tbsp salt4 medium floury potatoes50g butter, melted50ml milk1 tbsp turmeric powder1 tbsp garam masala2 tsp ground coriander seedsSalt and pepper to seasonFlour for dustingMethod1. Place the fish on a large plate or tray and sprinkle over the jasmine, salt, sugar and a twist of pepper. Make sure all the skin and flesh is covered then wrap in clingfilm and leave to cure in the fridge for at least an hour.2. Rinse and gently poach the fish in water for about five minutes then remove the skin, flake the fish and set aside to cool.3. Cook the potatoes until soft and starting to fall apart when you prod them with a knife. Drain and leave to steam dry for a while then mash well with the butter and milk until creamy.4. Mix together the fish, potato and remaining ingredients and shape into fishcakes.5. Toss them in flour to dry them out and shallow-fry in vegetable oil (preferably rapeseed) until golden brown, flipping halfway through.6. Drain on kitchen paper and serve with the mayonnaise and ketchup and a beetroot and chicory salad.

Infused oils: getting more flavour into your meals

Here’s a quick and easy way to add a little more flavour to your cooking. Depending on what you’re making, using infused oils to cook with can make the difference between a good dish and a great one.I like to use this garlic, rosemary, chilli and tomato vine oil to make tomato sauces for pasta, such as arrabiata or beef ragú.IngredientsThe vine stems from four packs of tomatoes1 sprig of rosemary5/6 cloves of garlic2 chillies (serrano are good for this)400ml olive oil100ml rapeseed oilA splash of cider vinegarMethod

1. Gently heat the oil and add all the ingredients to the pan.
2. Cook on a medium heat for five minutes, until things start to sizzle and change colour.
3. Turn the heat off and leave to cool and infuse for 20 minutes.
4. Add the vinegar and store in sterilised airtight glass jars or bottles.

Other oilsOils are good to experiment with; here are some other ideas for oils that can add in-depth flavour to your cooking:Curry oil: a mix of cumin, coriander and cardamom seeds with peppercorns, cloves, garlic and ginger powder in a 50/50 mix of olive oil and rapeseed oil.Chilli oil: add chilli flakes, a selection of fresh chillies, some garlic and a dash of vinegar.Lobster oil: roast lobster shells in a little oil, then smash them up and add more oil before storing in a jar.Lemon oil: this one is great for South East Asian cooking. Blend lemon grass, lemon zest and lemon juice with some kaffir lime leaves and, if possible, verbena in a 50/50 mix of olive oil and rapeseed oil.

Fiery homemade chilli sauce that’s full of flavour

Chilli sauce has been a source of constant disappointment in my life. It’s either not as hot as it says it should be, or it’s hot but without much flavour.I remember trying a chilli sauce from Singapore, brought over by an art college friend years ago. It blew my head off, but then I didn’t have much tolerance.Now, that same sauce is easier to handle and I can really taste the flavours. I have since been searching for that balance between hot and tasty. Finally, I think I’ve found it by making it myself.It’s not for the faint-hearted, but if you can take the heat, you’ll love this one.Ingredients:50 or so chillies. I used a mix of Scotch bonnet, Naga ghoshst, birdseye, cayenne, serano and jalapeñoA good handful of rock saltA bulb of garlic, peeled6 rosemary sprigs, stalks removed10-15 black peppercorns200ml cider vinegarUnrefined golden caster sugar to tasteMethod:1. Salt the chillies in a large glass jar for about three months.2. Shake them around once or twice a week and drain off any of the liquid that comes from the chillies.3. At the end of the salting period, thoroughly rinse the chillies and drain them.4. Pour in a little of the vinegar and sugar and blitz with a stick blender until smooth, but still with some texture.5. Add more vinegar and sugar to taste until you have a fairly thick sauce.6. Store in an airtight container or glass jar in the fridge, and it should be good for a month.

Dhal Vadai: spiced Indian lentil balls

I have talked about my love of lentils in an earlier post. Like the Swedish are never too far away from a herring, dhal is never too far from my mind. Lentils are comfort food with the benefit of being incredibly good for you. The varieties lend themselves to a wide range of different dishes: Le Puy for a sausage casserole, beluga for a rabbit stew.When my wife asked me to make an Indian version of falafel (as a lower carb snack), I remembered eating something similar at the wonderful Ganapati canteen in Peckham.So here is my version of a very popular Indian street snack, perfect for an aperitif or even a small starter. For this dish, I have used split red lentils, but you could replace 50g with chana dhal, which is dried split chickpea.Feel free to adjust the amount of chilli to your taste. I like mine hot.Prep time: 15 minutesCooking time: 30 minsIngredients:200g split red lentils3cm cinnamon stick1 tbsp toasted coriander seed1 tbsp toasted cumin seed3 tbsp garam masala3 green birds-eye chillies1 tbsp peppercorns (fresh if possible)1 tbsp turmeric powder10-12 curry leaves (fresh if possible, use 6-8 if dried)Salt to seasonMethod:Rinse 100g of the lentils until the water runs clear. Add them to a pan with 350ml cold water, a pinch of salt, the turmeric, curry leaves, cinnamon and peppercorns.Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer for about 20 minutes, or until soft.Spread out on a tray to dry a little and remove the cinnamon stick and as many of the curry leaves as you can.Meanwhile, grind the remaining lentils to a powder in a spice grinder and mix with the cooked lentils until you get a fairly firm and shapeable mix.Heat vegetable or rapeseed oil to 180c in a deep pan to about 1/3 of the way up. You can tell when it’s hot enough by dropping a little of the mix into the oil and it goes golden brown in about 30 seconds.Using a coffee scoop, shape the mix into balls and cook three or four at a time until golden brown. Remove and place on kitchen towel to dry as you make the rest.Serve with yoghurt mixed with two tablespoons of dried coriander leaves, a few fresh chopped mint leaves, wholegrain mustard and a pinch of chilli powder.

Delicious beef kofte skewers with yogurt, cumin and mint dip

 A good kebab is a great thing. It’s almost the ultimate in balanced meals with the meat, salad, vegetables and carbohydrates. It can either soak up a night’s excesses or remind you of long summer lunches in Greece or Turkey, surrounded by the chargrills and their mouthwatering aromas.Cooking over coals or wood gives the meat such tenderness and depth of flavour and certainly appeals to my inner Neanderthal.The best way to cook this, then, is over flames. However, if it’s the height of the English summer and you have to cook inside, grill them on the highest heat possible and that should do.Prep: 25-30 mins (15-20 if using minced meat)Serves: 4Ingredients300g rib-eye steak300g osso bucco1 tsp white peppercorns1tbsp cumin seeds1tbsp coriander seeds1 tsp dried mint½ tsp smoked paprika1 tsp za’atar1 tsp chilli powder1 tbsp puréed garlic1 tbsp puréed ginger½ red onion, finely dicedA handful of breadcrumbs1 eggA squeeze of lemon juiceMethodSlice the meat as finely as you can, or if you haven’t the time, get your butcher to mince it for you. The texture won't be as good, but the end result will still be delicious.Squeeze out the bone marrow from the osso bucco and add with the sliced meat to a large mixing bowl.Toast the peppercorns, cumin and coriander in a dry frying pan until they start to release their aroma, then transfer to a spice grinder or pestle and mortar and process to a fine powder.Add the ground spices along with the rest of the ingredients to the meat, season well and mix thoroughly until everything is incorporated without it becoming to slushy.Shape the mixture into sausage shapes around metal skewers and grill on a high heat, turning occasionally, for five to ten minutes, depending on how thick you have made them.Tonight, I’m serving these with a carrot, cumin and dried mint yoghurt and a simple salad.Feel free to add flatbreads, but as I’m currently going low carb in a bid to look 20 again, not for me this time…

Meatballs with spiced tomato sauce and courgette 'spaghetti'

I love meatballs more than almost anything in the world. It's hard to beat a bowl of them served with spaghetti, but for this version I thought I'd make a healthier dish (with lower carbs) by substituting spaghetti for ribbons of courgette.This dish works really well - in fact, these are the best meatballs I've made - and we'll certainly be having it again soon.Makes more meatballs than you need for 2, or freeze the remainder once cooked.For the meatballs:1 pack of beef mince1 egg1 small jar of 'Sofrito' (or make your own by sweating a chopped carrot with chopped celery, chopped onion and salt)Large handful of dried breadcrumbs2 sprigs of chopped rosemarySeason well, mix well, form into balls and refrigerate for 30 mins.Fry in batches and set aside.For the sauce:Sauté an onion with some garlic in olive oil and as many hot chillies as you fancy. (I used four). Season, then add a tin of tomatoes and some oregano. Add a pinch of sugar and simmer for 20 mins or until thickened.Add the meatballs and heat through.For the courgette:Thinly slice the courgette lengthwise into spaghetti strips. Blanch for 20 secs in boiling water, then briefly sauté in chopped garlic.Season well and serve with meatballs and sauce, sprinkled with parmesan to taste.

The beautiful lentil

My favourite part of an Indian meal is most often the dhal. Dipping homemade naan into the silky, slightly spiced comforting refuge of the tarka-ed lentils is to me a little like a Sunday morning under the duvet with the papers. Or at least what I remember it to be like.

All of my friends and family love curry. It is almost our National Dish; I would bet that most people have a curry almost as often as a roast. And other countries call our food bland. The beauty of bringing influences from all over is a breadth of view unseen or ignored by the tunnel vision of countries focused on ‘tradition’.

But dhal, or dhal bhat (dhal with rice), seen often as peasants’ food, is a joy. There are many types of lentils, and each family will have their own recipe. Mine is really an attempt to recreate many of the Indian restaurants’ versions I have eaten and also the –now famous in our family– dhal curry we had on a beach in Unawatuna, Sri Lanka. It almost melted my head, but it was amazing.

I don’t want that heat in mine because you need the counterpoint to any spiciness in the curry. But how the humble, earthy pulse sings when you treat it with love is, for me, a much more miraculous transformation than a prawn or ten, delicious as they are, cooked in subtle spices and coconut.

Dhal and ‘foolproof’ rice

Serves 4Prep: 20 minsCooking time: 45 mins

The key to this is keeping it simple and relaxed. Start by cooking half a finely sliced onion in a saucepan with a little olive oil and salt until softened, then add one chopped garlic clove and cook gently for a few more minutes. Add a mug full of red split lentils in three times their volume of water, season with a little more salt and add a tablespoon or two of ground turmeric. Leave them simmering, covered for about half an hour, making sure the water doesn’t boil away. Add more if necessary.

When cooked, mash half up into a paste with a wooden spoon or stick blender, put the lid back on, leave for now and get on with the rice.

Put one mug of basmati rice and one and a half of water into a saucepan. Season well with salt, cover, bring to the boil then turn down to the heat as low as possible and cook for about ten minutes, or until the water has been absorbed. Remove the lid, cover with a few sheets of kitchen towel, replace the lid and set aside to steam in its own heat for up to half an hour.

To temper the spices use the following:

1tbsp black mustard seeds1tsp cumin seeds½tsp fennel seeds1tsp coriander seeds1tsp chilli flakes½tsp asaefoetida powder

Heat some olive oil in a small pan and add the mustard seeds. When they start to pop, add the rest of the spices one by one and wait until they start to release their aromas. Be careful to not let them burn and add them, along with the oil, into the lentils. Stir quickly and cover. Leave to infuse for about ten minutes and serve with the rice, which you have fluffed up with a fork, some naan and if you are making a meal of it, a curry such as Keralan prawn curry.

Marvellous Moules Marinières with easy fries

 Having been writing seafood recipes for the past few days, last night I had a spare bag of mussels. I also had some potatoes, cream, garlic, white wine, parsley and shallots – so supper was an obvious choice. I’ve always loved Moules Marinières, ever since being taught as a boy to use an empty shell as a mussel-removing tool. A few years later, my great Aunty Suzy in Paris told me that this was a Belgian dish, and taught me that the only way to have it was with beer.The fries with this are a must, and this method is much quicker than the blanching and cooling method traditionally used. The difference is almost unnoticeable.Ingredients1kg very fresh mussels1 banana shallot1 clove of garlic3tbsp chopped parsley1 glass of white wine150ml double creamOlive oil1l groundnut or rapeseed oil for deep-frying4 Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and cut into fine chipsSalt and pepper to season Method

1. Clean the mussels well, removing their ‘beards’ and soak them in cold water for 15 minutes. Discard any that are broken, won’t close when tapped or remain open after soaking.
2. Rinse the fries in cold water for five to 10 minutes, then drain and pat dry with kitchen towel.
3. Pour the groundnut oil into a deep pan, ensuring it comes no more than halfway up the inside. Add the fries and turn on the heat to high. Do not leave the pan unattended. Cook until starting to turn golden brown, then remove them and put in a bowl with kitchen towel to drain a little. Season well.
4. Meanwhile, heat some olive oil in a large, heavy-based pan and gently sauté the garlic and shallots. Season well and add the mussels. Turn the heat up and pour in the wine. Cover tightly with a lid and steam for six to 10 minutes. Throw away any that haven’t opened.
5. Finally, add the cream and parsley, and serve straight from the pan with the fries.