Ça va, mon chou?

Savoy cabbage, quickly cooked, with butter and pepper is pretty good as it is. But if you want to pep it up to serve as a side dish with south-east Asian food it may not quite cut the mustard.The trick with cabbage is to not cook it for a whole school term. A flash in the pan to soften it is enough, so be careful and be quick. This is fiery and comforting at the same time and goes really well with some steamed fish with lemongrass and lime leaves.Ingredients1/2 Savoy cabbage, shreddedCoconut oil for frying2 hot red birdseye chillies, sliced1tbsp red Thai curry paste1tbsp dessicated coconut1tbsp coconut aminos or soy sauce1tbsp lime juice100ml coconut creamSalt to seasonMethodSauté the cabbage in some coconut oil, letting some of the shreds almost burn. Add as much chilli as you like, my chillies were surprisingly hot, so be careful.Add the curry paste to the pan (home made if you can be bothered) and add a little more coconut oil. Cook for a few minutes, stirring well so it doesn't burn.Pour in the coconut cream and heat through. Tip into a bowl and blowtorch the top of the cabbage if you have one to give it a little bit of a dramatic char. Add a little more sliced red chilli and some hazelnuts sprinkled on top if you fancy, and serve.

Springing a Leek

 On Thursday night we went out for my birthday supper at Olivio Carne, the sister to what is pretty much my favourite restaurant in London (Olivio near Victoria station) and I had pasta for the first time in nearly two months. My new rule is that food like that has to be worth it. And it was. A beautiful wild boar pappardelle. I also had plenty of Kate's duck ragù just to help her out.I've been wondering how to recreate one of my favourite dishes, ravioli con burro e salvia without pasta while I've been avoiding carbs. My new rules are that it's fine to occasionally eat what you want, and to not make sugar and wheat part of my daily diet. There seemed, after thinking about it, little point in trying to recreate ravioli, so here's a new dish based on those flavours.Leek is nature's cannelloni. And with this, instead of the traditional sage infused butter, a creamy sauce seemed a good idea. And to keep it dairy and wheat free meant almond milk and tapioca starch, so it's also gluten free. And vegan. And paleo. And Whole 30. It also dances the can-can for you while singing the Nessun Dorma. This should win awards for the most inclusive dish in the world. Unless you are allergic to nuts. Leave them out if you are. Unless you like risk.It's quite straightforward to make, once you get everything together. Just try not to spill double the amount of tapioca you need into the saucepan. This is very upsetting and can lead to a bit of a strop.Ingredients for two people as a starterFor the filling:420g roast butternut squash or pumpkin, diced40g almonds, skin on, chopped a little1 large clove of garlic, smashedA few young thyme sprigs1tbsp shiitake mushroom powder (optional)Pinch of chilli flakesA big squeeze of lemon juicesalt and pepperOlive oilFor the sauce:1 leek, light green part, pushed into tubesA large handful of sage leaves, shredded3tbsp Olive oilThin bits of middle of the leek, finely sliced300ml Almond milk1 1/2tbsp Tapioca starchSaltShredded sage leaves, chopped toasted almonds and dried borage flowers to serve, if you have them on the shelf in a jar and keep wondering what to do with them.MethodRoast the filling ingredients (apart from the lemon juice) at 200c for  25-30 mins, until soft and golden then leave to cool before adding the lemon juice and blitzing  until smooth (but not too smooth) in a food processor then put in a bowl. Taste it and adjust the lemon juice and seasoning if necessary.Cut the dark green and white parts off the leek and use for stock. Or, do what I did and forget about them in the back of the fridge then throw them away.Push out the inner tubes of the leek, leaving you with about six of the large outer tubes. Slice the inner ones then sauté them until soft in good olive oil, with sage and then season and transfer to a bowl. Add the almond milk and tapioca to the pan, heat and whisk until you have an emulsion as thick as double cream. Add the leek and sage mixture and leave to infuse for ten minutes before removing the sage stalks and blitzing the sauce in the food processor. If you prefer, you can leave it unblitzed, but I prefer it smooth.Stuff the leek tubes with the filling and cook gently in a little olive oil until soft. Turning occasionally and carefully. Chop some toasted almonds and get the sauce warmed.Put the sauce on plates, top with the leek then sprinkle over the almonds, sage leaves and borage flowers if using. Blowtorch the leek if you're feeling fancy. Finish with a drizzle of excellent olive oil and serve.

Pass the buck(wheat)

 Another carb-free week goes by and I'm fine. I don't miss bread as much as I thought. Basmati rice though, is a little harder to give up, we had lunch at Lahore Karai in Tooting the other day and the children tucked into a big plate of it without loosening their belts.This week I've made a few dishes that are more springlike. A confit tuna Niçoise, a spring minestrone, smoked salmon with avocado and eggs, and a light spinach and apple soup among other things.Last night though, with a breaking boiler and the cold weather still biting, we fancied something cosy and comforting: risotto. Rice is out of the question, but I've been using buckwheat a lot recently. I used buckwheat flour to make the children galettes the other day for lunch and I also used it to make soba noodles to go in a prawn and tofu miso soup. In the past I've toasted it in a frying pan before cooking it, making kasha to serve with salmon steaks. So I used it in place of my favourite Vialone Nano rice to make this simple mushroom 'risotto'.IngredientsFor two150g buckwheat1 small onion, chopped1 clove of garlic, crushed1tbsp powdered, dried porcini mushrooms (you can make your own in a grinder)150g chestnut mushrooms, sliced400ml chicken or vegetable stock. I used homemade chicken stock.Olive oilSalt and pepper2tbsp butterGrated parmesanChopped parsley to serveMethodSauté the mushrooms in a little oil and set aside.Heat some oil in a saucepan and add the onion and buckwheat. Cook for a few minutes until the onion is translucent and the grains are beginning to toast a little.Add the garlic, mushroom powder, season a little and stir well.Add a ladleful of the stock to the pan and stir well. Turn the heat down to a simmer and let the buckwheat absorb the liquid before adding the next. Keep on doing this until the stock is finished or the buckwheat is soft, but with a little bite.Add the cooked mushrooms and stir.Now for the 'mantecatura'. Add the butter and Parmesan and vigorously shake the pan while stirring with a wooden spoon. Put a lid on and leave to rest for a few minutes. Stir through some chopped parsley and serve with more Parmesan.

Morning Smoothie

I tend to start every morning with a Nutribullet smoothie. I was never a great breakfast eater, but this has proven an easy way for me to get the day off to a good start. Some combinations have been less successful than others, but one thing I find is using frozen fruit makes even the greenest vegetable drink taste delicious. Just blitz all the ingredients together and drink immediately.This morning's ingredients:1 bananaA handful of kale1tbsp goji berries1 tsp vanilla extract3 tbsp porridge oats2 tbsp sunflower seeds2 tbsp chia seeds1tbsp raw cocoa nibs1 tbsp turmeric powderA large handful of frozen mango, melon and pineapple piecesAlmond milk 

North African chickpea and tomato stew

I say North African, but this really is a mix of store cupboard items that could be Asian, Indian, Turkish, Moroccan and Mediterranean.Chickpeas were a staple growing up and my aunt always told me they make you fart a lot. Whether or not this is true, I’m not sure, but it means that I tend to always put caraway seed in every chickpea recipe just in case.This dish really punches above its weight in flavour. It’s rich, comforting and quick to make. I served it as part of a mezze platter the other week and it worked really well with dishes such as baba ganoush, flatbreads and spiced courgette. Alternatively, eat it with cauliflower ‘rice’ or sweet potato.Serves:                         4 as a side dish or 2 as a main coursePreparation time:      5 minutesCooking time:            30 minutesIngredients2 onions2 cloves of garlicA large splash of rapeseed oil6 large tomatoes, roughly chopped2tbsp tomato purée1 tin of chickpeas1 tin of cannellini beans1tbsp berbere spice mix1tbsp baharat spice mix1tbsp cumin seeds1 medium bunch of fresh coriander1-2 red birdseye chillies1tsp caraway seedsA splash of waterSalt and pepper to season Method:

1. Fry the onions and garlic in rapeseed oil then add the spices and chilli.
2. Add the spices and cook for a minute or two.
3. Add the chillies, tomato purée and tomatoes, season, add some water and stir well. Cover and simmer for about 20 minutes then squash down with a wooden spoon.
4. Add the chickpeas and beans heat through then stir in the chopped coriander, check the seasoning and serve.

Kasha with spiced roast vegetables

This vibrant dish can be served warm or cold. Kasha, or roast buckwheat is so good for you and has a nutty taste and texture that complements the sweet roast vegetables.

What I really like about this dish is it has loads of flavour, texture and colour and is healthy too. I didn’t this time, but in future I think I’ll serve it drizzled with a basil and cumin yoghurt.

Serves:                               2Preparation time:            20 minutesCooking time:                  30 minutes

Ingredients2 tbsp rapeseed oil2 eggs, boiled for 6 ½ minutes then run under cold water to refresh2 garlic cloves150g buckwheat1 red pepper, seeds removed and cut into chunks1 fennel bulb, sliced thinlyA handful of button mushrooms, halved1 red onion, peeled and quarteredA large handful of kale, stems removed4-6 cherry tomatoes½ tsp rosewater1 tbsp chilli flakes1 tbsp ground coriander2 tsp ground cumin2 tsp ground turmeric1 tbsp toasted fennel seeds3 tbsp each of chopped coriander, chives and parsleySalt and pepper to seasonMethod1. Bring a small saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the buckwheat, return to the boil and simmer for five minutes. Drain and set aside2. Place the garlic and vegetables – apart from the tomatoes – on a roasting tray and drizzle with the oil then season generously. Roast at 220c until they start to char – about 25 minutes.3. Stir in the buckwheat, spices, cherry tomatoes and rosewater, check the seasoning and keep warm.4. Peel and halve the eggs. Divide the vegetables between two plates and serve with the eggs and chopped herbs.

Spicy filo vegetable parcels

Bourek, samosa, pasty or empanada? They’re all good ways to eat a messy filling with your hands. I first had bourek in a cous cous restaurant in Paris and loved the delicate pastry and the oozing cooked egg inside. With that in mind, I’ve combined a spicy vegetable filling with the egg on top and added quorn for texture.Feel free to use minced lamb if you prefer and it’s up to you whether you make six large ones or 12 small to have as snacks. You can use quails’ eggs for these. Serve with a mint crème fraiche.Makes:                             6-12Preparation time:         20 minutesCooking time:                45 minutesIngredients1 onion, finely chopped2 cloves of garlic1 celery stick, finely chopped1 medium carrot, finely choppedA handful of buckwheat1 tsp paprika1 tsp coriander1 tsp turmeric2 bay leaves½ a butternut squash, diced1 packet of Quorn mince (approx 300g)4 medium tomatoes, chopped1 mug of water2 tbsp tomato puréeA small handful of kale leaves2 tbsp za’atar spice mix6 eggs (optional) plus one for glazingSalt and pepper to season1 220g pack of ready rolled filo pastry sheetsMethod1. Sauté the onions and garlic in a little olive oil until soft then add the carrot and celery.Season well and cook gently for five minutes.2. Add the buckwheat and toast well before mixing in all the spices apart from the za’atar then add the squash and quorn and mix well.3. Stir in the tomatoes, mix the purée with the water and pour into the pan. Cover and cook for 20 minutes then stir in the kale and cook for a further 15 minutes with the lid off. The liquid needs to reduce so you don’t end up with soggy pastries. Set aside to cool.4. Preheat the oven to 180c5. When cool, lay the filo pastry on the work surface and brush the edges of the top one with some beaten egg mixed with a little milk or water.6. Put a large spoonful of the filling in one corner of the pastry, make a well in the centre and add the egg. Sprinkle with the za’atar. Fold over into a triangle. Brush with more egg and fold again. Repeat until you have a firm parcel. Glaze the pastry with the egg, repeat with the remaining mixture and bake the parcels in the oven for about 25 minutes, or until golden and crisp. Serve with a mint crème fraîche made with a mix of dried and fresh mint.

Wild garlic risotto

Wild garlic is in full flower in late April and May, so now is the time to get it. Mine grows in the garden, but it’s easy to find in churchyards, woods and fields. The flowers are edible and tasty, as well as looking really pretty on the plate. Its uses range from pesto to soups and, in this recipe, risotto. I like to use Carnaroli rice for its creaminess, but feel free to use other types. You could even substitute spelt for the rice, adjusting the liquid and cooking time as required.Serves: 4Preparation time: 10 minutesCooking time: 25 minutesIngredients1l vegetable stock, preferably homemadeOlive oil2 garlic cloves, finely chopped4 small shallots, finely slicedHalf a glass of white wine, better still, vermouth (optional)A large handful of wild garlic leaves and a good sprinkle of the flowers2 tbsp butter2 tbsp grated parmesanA dash of truffle oil if you’re feeling luxuriousSalt to season Method

1. Heat the stock in a saucepan and keep it warm on the stove.
2. In a deep, heavy bottomed pan sauté the garlic and shallots in a little olive oil until soft, then add the rice and a pinch of salt. Stir well and toast the rice for a minute.
3. Add the vermouth if using and let it reduce right down. Add the stock a ladleful at a time, only adding another when the previous ladleful has been absorbed. Make sure you keep stirring the rice to release the starch for a creamy risotto.
4. Halfway through, add half of the finely sliced wild garlic leaves and stir well.
5. Finish adding the stock, then vigorously stir in the butter and Parmesan while shaking the pan.
6. Stir in the remaining leaves, cover and rest for five minutes. Check the seasoning; add the garlic flowers and serve.

Delicious homemade doughnuts

The first time I had fresh doughnuts straight from the fryer was a revelation. There was a small stall between Covent Garden tube station and the market, basically a fryer on wheels. When some friends and I used to come up to London for whatever reason and found ourselves there, we would stuff our faces. They were hot and soft, sugary and delicious and felt like such a treat. Completely unlike the stodgy, cold shop-bought ones. Now, whenever possible I make my own.Cooking with the children is always good fun and baking is a really easy way to involve them. Rather than starting off with complicated savoury dishes, things like biscuits, cakes and doughnuts are great hands on recipes.Makes: 12 Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 5-6 minutesIngredients7g dry yeast5tbsp golden caster sugar230g plain flour160ml milk65g melted butter1 egg, beatenPinch of salt500ml rapeseed oil for fryingFillings of your choiceGolden caster sugar to coatMethod1. Warm the milk and add the yeast and a pinch of sugar. Leave to stand for about ten minutes until slightly foamy.2. Add the flour and sugar to a large bowl or food mixer and add the milk mixture and remaining sugar along with themelted butter and egg.3. Knead for about five minutes then cover the bowl and leave to rise for about an hour, or until doubled in size.4. Knead again for a couple of minutes then on a floured surface shape into balls and doughnuts and leave to rise for another twenty minutes or so.5. Heat the oil to 175c in a deep pan or preferably a deep-fat fryer and gently cook the doughnuts in small batches for a couple of minutes or so on each side. Don’t let the oil get too hot or they will remain uncooked on the inside and burn on the outside.6. Drain on kitchen paper and roll in sugar. When cool enough to handle, fill the centre of the balls using a pipette with your choice of filling. I think you can’t beat raspberry jam, but you could also use caramel or Nutella or whatever you fancy. I also like to drizzle them with caramel or melted chocolate and chopped hazlenuts.

Infused oils: getting more flavour into your meals

Here’s a quick and easy way to add a little more flavour to your cooking. Depending on what you’re making, using infused oils to cook with can make the difference between a good dish and a great one.I like to use this garlic, rosemary, chilli and tomato vine oil to make tomato sauces for pasta, such as arrabiata or beef ragú.IngredientsThe vine stems from four packs of tomatoes1 sprig of rosemary5/6 cloves of garlic2 chillies (serrano are good for this)400ml olive oil100ml rapeseed oilA splash of cider vinegarMethod

1. Gently heat the oil and add all the ingredients to the pan.
2. Cook on a medium heat for five minutes, until things start to sizzle and change colour.
3. Turn the heat off and leave to cool and infuse for 20 minutes.
4. Add the vinegar and store in sterilised airtight glass jars or bottles.

Other oilsOils are good to experiment with; here are some other ideas for oils that can add in-depth flavour to your cooking:Curry oil: a mix of cumin, coriander and cardamom seeds with peppercorns, cloves, garlic and ginger powder in a 50/50 mix of olive oil and rapeseed oil.Chilli oil: add chilli flakes, a selection of fresh chillies, some garlic and a dash of vinegar.Lobster oil: roast lobster shells in a little oil, then smash them up and add more oil before storing in a jar.Lemon oil: this one is great for South East Asian cooking. Blend lemon grass, lemon zest and lemon juice with some kaffir lime leaves and, if possible, verbena in a 50/50 mix of olive oil and rapeseed oil.

Fiery homemade chilli sauce that’s full of flavour

Chilli sauce has been a source of constant disappointment in my life. It’s either not as hot as it says it should be, or it’s hot but without much flavour.I remember trying a chilli sauce from Singapore, brought over by an art college friend years ago. It blew my head off, but then I didn’t have much tolerance.Now, that same sauce is easier to handle and I can really taste the flavours. I have since been searching for that balance between hot and tasty. Finally, I think I’ve found it by making it myself.It’s not for the faint-hearted, but if you can take the heat, you’ll love this one.Ingredients:50 or so chillies. I used a mix of Scotch bonnet, Naga ghoshst, birdseye, cayenne, serano and jalapeñoA good handful of rock saltA bulb of garlic, peeled6 rosemary sprigs, stalks removed10-15 black peppercorns200ml cider vinegarUnrefined golden caster sugar to tasteMethod:1. Salt the chillies in a large glass jar for about three months.2. Shake them around once or twice a week and drain off any of the liquid that comes from the chillies.3. At the end of the salting period, thoroughly rinse the chillies and drain them.4. Pour in a little of the vinegar and sugar and blitz with a stick blender until smooth, but still with some texture.5. Add more vinegar and sugar to taste until you have a fairly thick sauce.6. Store in an airtight container or glass jar in the fridge, and it should be good for a month.

Dhal Vadai: spiced Indian lentil balls

I have talked about my love of lentils in an earlier post. Like the Swedish are never too far away from a herring, dhal is never too far from my mind. Lentils are comfort food with the benefit of being incredibly good for you. The varieties lend themselves to a wide range of different dishes: Le Puy for a sausage casserole, beluga for a rabbit stew.When my wife asked me to make an Indian version of falafel (as a lower carb snack), I remembered eating something similar at the wonderful Ganapati canteen in Peckham.So here is my version of a very popular Indian street snack, perfect for an aperitif or even a small starter. For this dish, I have used split red lentils, but you could replace 50g with chana dhal, which is dried split chickpea.Feel free to adjust the amount of chilli to your taste. I like mine hot.Prep time: 15 minutesCooking time: 30 minsIngredients:200g split red lentils3cm cinnamon stick1 tbsp toasted coriander seed1 tbsp toasted cumin seed3 tbsp garam masala3 green birds-eye chillies1 tbsp peppercorns (fresh if possible)1 tbsp turmeric powder10-12 curry leaves (fresh if possible, use 6-8 if dried)Salt to seasonMethod:Rinse 100g of the lentils until the water runs clear. Add them to a pan with 350ml cold water, a pinch of salt, the turmeric, curry leaves, cinnamon and peppercorns.Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer for about 20 minutes, or until soft.Spread out on a tray to dry a little and remove the cinnamon stick and as many of the curry leaves as you can.Meanwhile, grind the remaining lentils to a powder in a spice grinder and mix with the cooked lentils until you get a fairly firm and shapeable mix.Heat vegetable or rapeseed oil to 180c in a deep pan to about 1/3 of the way up. You can tell when it’s hot enough by dropping a little of the mix into the oil and it goes golden brown in about 30 seconds.Using a coffee scoop, shape the mix into balls and cook three or four at a time until golden brown. Remove and place on kitchen towel to dry as you make the rest.Serve with yoghurt mixed with two tablespoons of dried coriander leaves, a few fresh chopped mint leaves, wholegrain mustard and a pinch of chilli powder.

The beautiful lentil

My favourite part of an Indian meal is most often the dhal. Dipping homemade naan into the silky, slightly spiced comforting refuge of the tarka-ed lentils is to me a little like a Sunday morning under the duvet with the papers. Or at least what I remember it to be like.

All of my friends and family love curry. It is almost our National Dish; I would bet that most people have a curry almost as often as a roast. And other countries call our food bland. The beauty of bringing influences from all over is a breadth of view unseen or ignored by the tunnel vision of countries focused on ‘tradition’.

But dhal, or dhal bhat (dhal with rice), seen often as peasants’ food, is a joy. There are many types of lentils, and each family will have their own recipe. Mine is really an attempt to recreate many of the Indian restaurants’ versions I have eaten and also the –now famous in our family– dhal curry we had on a beach in Unawatuna, Sri Lanka. It almost melted my head, but it was amazing.

I don’t want that heat in mine because you need the counterpoint to any spiciness in the curry. But how the humble, earthy pulse sings when you treat it with love is, for me, a much more miraculous transformation than a prawn or ten, delicious as they are, cooked in subtle spices and coconut.

Dhal and ‘foolproof’ rice

Serves 4Prep: 20 minsCooking time: 45 mins

The key to this is keeping it simple and relaxed. Start by cooking half a finely sliced onion in a saucepan with a little olive oil and salt until softened, then add one chopped garlic clove and cook gently for a few more minutes. Add a mug full of red split lentils in three times their volume of water, season with a little more salt and add a tablespoon or two of ground turmeric. Leave them simmering, covered for about half an hour, making sure the water doesn’t boil away. Add more if necessary.

When cooked, mash half up into a paste with a wooden spoon or stick blender, put the lid back on, leave for now and get on with the rice.

Put one mug of basmati rice and one and a half of water into a saucepan. Season well with salt, cover, bring to the boil then turn down to the heat as low as possible and cook for about ten minutes, or until the water has been absorbed. Remove the lid, cover with a few sheets of kitchen towel, replace the lid and set aside to steam in its own heat for up to half an hour.

To temper the spices use the following:

1tbsp black mustard seeds1tsp cumin seeds½tsp fennel seeds1tsp coriander seeds1tsp chilli flakes½tsp asaefoetida powder

Heat some olive oil in a small pan and add the mustard seeds. When they start to pop, add the rest of the spices one by one and wait until they start to release their aromas. Be careful to not let them burn and add them, along with the oil, into the lentils. Stir quickly and cover. Leave to infuse for about ten minutes and serve with the rice, which you have fluffed up with a fork, some naan and if you are making a meal of it, a curry such as Keralan prawn curry.

The only tomato sauce recipe you'll ever need

Back when my wife and I could go on holiday without having to take an entire nursery with us, we spent a week in the January gloom of a tiny Ligurian village called Apricale. Out of season and with most of the bars, restaurants and shops closed, it was pretty, quiet and pretty quiet. Of the places that were open, the one we went to most was a simple café called Locanda Tarocchi, which served amazing food that was simple but really delicious. Their antipasti was the best I’ve ever had anywhere, and their spaghetti with tomato sauce was beautiful, fresh and sweet. When I got home I tried to recreate it – and after many attempts I think I’ve got pretty close with this one.Ingredients6 tbsp good quality olive oil4 cloves of garlic, peeled1 tsp of white wine vinegar1 tbsp sugar250g of cherry tomatoes, with the vineA pinch of salt1 tsp of paprikaMethod1. In a large frying pan with the heat on already, pour in the olive oil. Add the garlic cloves and cook them gently, turning occasionally until they are starting to colour and soften. Remove the garlic cloves and throw them away, or as I do, mash them up and spread on a piece of crusty bread for a snack.2. Add the vines from the tomatoes and give them a good stir round, coating them in oil and releasing their wonderful aroma into the oil.3. Throw in the tomatoes, shake the pan around for a bit and season well with the salt, paprika and sugar. Leave the tomatoes to cook for about five minutes, or until collapsing, give them a good stir and add the vinegar. Cook for a further five minutes, adjust the seasoning and add a dash of water if the sauce is too thick. Remove the vines and serve with spaghetti and plenty of parmesan.

A French lunch sourced in Crystal Palace

I really love eating like the French. Good cheese, bread, cold meats, salad and wine combine to make a perfect lunch.Making the most of the sunny morning, Noah, Maya and I went to visit the new weekly Crystal Palace food market today. It was great to see lots of stalls and lots of locals and I filled my bag with baguettes, eggs and a super hot chilli sauce from Mad Ass called Dare Ya.We eventually made it to Good Taste Food and Drink, where I bought some meltingly soft triple crème cheese – including one of my all-time favourites, Chaource – wafer-thin slices of cured ham, thin sticks of saucisson and some Fentiman’s Shandy.It was a lovely way to start the weekend and, once home, I put it all together with a tomato salad, which we ate dreaming of French summers and two-hour lunches. Our two-year-old even decided he liked the Chaource.I'm looking forward to next week’s market. I hope it goes from strength to strength and attracts even more stalls with interesting products.

The best Salsa Verde ever

…well, in my humble opinion it is. This is what we’re having for dinner tonight. I was craving some bright, summery flavours, and they don’t get much better than in Salsa Verde. It translates as ‘green sauce’, and that is exactly what it is – basically pesto with added panache and interest.You can tweak the proportion of herbs to your taste, but the depth comes from the capers and anchovies. Don’t be afraid of the anchovy sauce; it doesn't taste fishy in this – it just rounds everything off nicely. If you’re adamant about not including it, or are vegetarian, strong black or purple olives make a good substitute. Finally, I’ve replaced half the usual olive oil with rapeseed oil to cut down on the saturated fat, but feel free to use just one or other if you prefer.I think this goes best with seared tuna and a tomato salad, but it is also delicious with lamb or chicken. Either way, when the words “the smell of that is driving me wild” are spoken in your kitchen, you know you’re onto a winner.I love this version – plus it’s incredibly easy to make – but I’d be interested to know if anyone out there has an even better Salsa Verde recipe.Serves:                 4 peoplePrep time:          10 minsIngredients2 small bunches basil1 large bunch coriander, including stems1 large bunch parsley1 small bunch mint1 clove garlic, chopped2 tbsp capers2 tbsp dijon mustardOlive oilRapeseed oil4 dashes Angostura bittersLemon juice3 tarragon leaves1 tbsp anchovy sauce6 black olivesSaltMethod

1. Finely chop or blitz all of the ingredients together (except those listed in step 2).
2. Add the oil, lemon juice and bitters. Done!

In a pickle

I must admit, I set out thinking more about the shapes and colours of this pickled vegetable dish before the flavours, as I couldn’t resist the red of radish against the bright green of cress leaves. Strong, vivid colours will always make a dish look more appetising – which must appeal to our natural instincts for healthy food – and pickling is a great way to intensify those colours.Pickling also creates a sharp contrast of flavours to freshen the palate, and everything here was so sharp, sweet, crunchy and fresh that I was hard pressed not to eat it straight from the bowl.This dish would work well with lightly-spiced chicken, steamed sea bream and lemongrass, or perhaps scallops quickly sautéed in butter and orange zest.Serves:                 4Prep time:          10 mins, plus pickling timeIngredients16 radishes, sliced as thinly as possible2 tbsp mustard cress10cm cucumber, sliced as thinly as possible1 head of Shimeji mushrooms, sliced from the base2 tbsp caster sugar2 tbsp white wine vinegar1 tbsp Mirin2 tsp Japanese rice vinegarMethod

1. Mix together the sugar and liquid ingredients in a bowl and stir well until the sugar has dissolved.
2.  Add the remaining ingredients, apart from the cress, and stir gently, making sure they are covered by the vinegar. Set aside and leave to pickle for half an hour or so.
3. Scatter over the cress and serve as a side dish or pile delicately on the plate with your chicken or fish.

How to food style it

1. If serving in the bowl as a side dish, just make sure everything can be seen. The white inner circles of the radish make great ‘frames’ for the cress and mushrooms. Try and fold the cucumber in nice waves throughout.
2. If serving directly on the plate, it’s nice to space all of the elements out and create a graphic pattern on the plate to then place the other elements in and around.
3. Use the pink sugary vinegar left in the bowl to create vivid spots and drizzles on the plate.

Fig and goat’s cheese tart with onions, tomatoes and honey

When I was at my parents’ last weekend for my dad’s birthday, I wanted to contribute something to the lunch, and brought in the figs I happened to have left over from the day before. I started first thing in the morning by caramelising some onions over a very low heat, until they turned a sweet golden brown. Nearer to lunchtime, a quick assembly of the onion, figs, goat’s cheese and tomato created a simple and pretty puff pastry tart. I didn’t, but you could add some crisped parma ham at the end to give it a little extra texture and saltiness.Serves: 6-8 as a starterPrep time: 25 minsCooking time: 1 hour for the onions, plus 25 mins for the restIngredients1 sheet of ready-rolled puff pastry4 white onions, thinly sliced, though red would work well too1 tsp sugar1 thyme sprig8 figs, quartered150g crumbly goat’s cheese8 cherry tomatoes1 tbsp poppy seeds1 tbsp sesame seeds1 tbsp honeyOlive oilLemon zest2 tsp balsamic vinegar, thickened slightly in a hot pan and left to coolA handful of lamb’s lettuce to garnishSalt and pepper to seasonMethod

1. Heat a frying pan over a medium heat and add some olive oil, the onions, thyme and a little salt and sugar. Stir occasionally and cook until they start to become translucent. Turn the heat down and cover with a lid. Check occasionally, stirring to make sure they don’t stick or burn. Cook for 45-50 minutes or until they are golden brown, sweet and rich.
2. Nearer to lunchtime, heat the oven to 180°C and roll the pastry onto a baking sheet. Prick the middle with a fork so it doesn’t rise too much, and score a 1cm border all the way around. Cook for 15-20 minutes then remove from the oven and spread the onions over it. Arrange the figs, goat’s cheese and tomatoes on top, sprinkle with the seeds, and drizzle with the oil, honey, balsamic and lemon zest.
3. Season well and when cooled a little, top with the lamb’s lettuce.

How to food style it

1. The pastry sheet really is a blank canvas, and with this tart the ingredients do all the work for you. Purple figs against pure whites, golden olive oil and green leaves are going to work, almost however you throw them down. Do try to build in balanced layers, making sure that every section of the tart has a good mix of the ingredients.
2. Finally, drizzle with oil and seeds to unify the surface and scatter leaves gently across, taking care to not hide the rest of the ingredients.