New season English asparagus traditionally starts on St. George's Day. Enjoy them at their best during the short season and treat them simply.
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Miso soup with prawn, scallop and samphire
This is one of the simplest and quickest meals you will ever make. And one of the most delicious. To make it work, though, you must get absolutely fresh tiger prawns and plump, large scallops. Don't be tempted to scrimp here, this is such a pure tasting dish and as there are so few ingredients there is nowhere to hide.I don't think you can beat a really good prawn. I prefer them to lobster. Keep the shells and heads in the freezer to use for bisque or stock. If you're feeling hungry, a small bowl of jasmine rice on the side should satisfy you.I often will have a cup of miso in the morning, instead of tea or coffee. I feel purified and revitalised when I drink it. Again, buy a good paste, I like to use Clearspring's unpasteurised barley miso, it's organic and has nothing nasty in it. You can keep miso in a sealed jar in the fridge almost indefinitely, so it makes a great staple for when you're stuck. You can add some dried mushrooms to it or some fresh vegetables and you have a nutritious dish in a few minutes.I eat this more than an hour ago, and I still have flavours coming back to me. Like the best of things, this simple dish has left me wanting to come back for more.Ingredients (Serves 2)2 squares of dried kombu seaweed2 tbsp miso paste1 tbsp yuzu seasoning (lemon juice will do if you don't have any)2 large tiger prawns2 large scallops, coral attachedA small handful of samphire1l water2 tsp black lumpfish roe (or caviar if you're rich)MethodSoak the kombu in boiling water for about 20 minutes.Sear the scallop on both sides in some hot brown butter, then set aside.Bring the water back up to the boil and add the prawns. Cook for a couple of minutes then add the samphire and yuzu. Stir in the miso paste and make sure it blends in well.Peel the prawns, leaving the tails on if you like. Cut the seaweed in two and place at the bottom of a warmed shallow bowl. Add the scallops and samphire.Add a teaspoon of roe on top of the scallop then pour over the hot miso and serve immediately.
The best Salsa Verde ever
…well, in my humble opinion it is. This is what we’re having for dinner tonight. I was craving some bright, summery flavours, and they don’t get much better than in Salsa Verde. It translates as ‘green sauce’, and that is exactly what it is – basically pesto with added panache and interest.You can tweak the proportion of herbs to your taste, but the depth comes from the capers and anchovies. Don’t be afraid of the anchovy sauce; it doesn't taste fishy in this – it just rounds everything off nicely. If you’re adamant about not including it, or are vegetarian, strong black or purple olives make a good substitute. Finally, I’ve replaced half the usual olive oil with rapeseed oil to cut down on the saturated fat, but feel free to use just one or other if you prefer.I think this goes best with seared tuna and a tomato salad, but it is also delicious with lamb or chicken. Either way, when the words “the smell of that is driving me wild” are spoken in your kitchen, you know you’re onto a winner.I love this version – plus it’s incredibly easy to make – but I’d be interested to know if anyone out there has an even better Salsa Verde recipe.Serves: 4 peoplePrep time: 10 minsIngredients2 small bunches basil1 large bunch coriander, including stems1 large bunch parsley1 small bunch mint1 clove garlic, chopped2 tbsp capers2 tbsp dijon mustardOlive oilRapeseed oil4 dashes Angostura bittersLemon juice3 tarragon leaves1 tbsp anchovy sauce6 black olivesSaltMethod
- Finely chop or blitz all of the ingredients together (except those listed in step 2).
- Add the oil, lemon juice and bitters. Done!
Beautiful bubble and squeak
In our house, it’s pretty rare for there to be any crackling left over from a roast pork – or, come to think of it, much pork. But when that does happen, I like making this version of bubble and squeak for brunch the next day. This deserves to be a dish in its own right, so it is even worth making it from scratch.Serves: 4Cooking time: 20 minsIngredientsUse whatever leftovers you have from the roast, or failing that:Shredded slow roast gammon and shattered crackling10 roast potatoes, lightly crushed with a fork½ a Savoy cabbage, finely sliced and blanched in salted water3 spring onions, shredded1 red onion, finely sliced1 tbsp Olive oil and tbsp butter to fry (or use the gammon dripping)3 dill cucumber picklesSalt and pepper to seasonMethod
- Mix together all the ingredients in a bowl and season well.
- Heat a frying pan and add the oil and butter until hot.
- Throw in the cabbage and potatoes, cook well, adding the red and spring onion at the last minute.
- Serve on warm plates with shredded cooked ham, crackling and sliced pickles, with a touch of wholegrain mustard.
How to food style it
- With this one, the cabbage forms a great base to structure the flakes of meat, potatoes and onions on. Try to give it form and height.
- Laying shards of crackling and slivers of spring onion on top helps give it elegance and leads your eye across the whole dish, bringing everything together.
- A spoon of mustard and some sliced pickles finish it off, keeping it elegant while still remaining rustic. It is, after all, a dish of leftovers.