Good food to me generally means simple food done well with thought and care. It makes sense that if you have good ingredients, you're off to a good start. There's nothing more disappointing in life than a pale, white airship of a tomato when you know how good a ripe, deep red one can and should taste. There's little point in bothering, far better to eat something else.And it can also be the little touches that elevate a meal. A good hand with the seasoning, the right herbs, good olive oil or that dash of fish sauce in your scrambled eggs. You don't need to be making spheres and foams to eat well. I've always seen that as the food equivalent of haute couture. No-one really wants to wear that stuff, but ideas do trickle down to real clothes.These tomatoes are amazing squished slightly into toasted slices of sourdough bread. We had them on the weekend as part of a brunch and they were the star. Bringing fruitiness, freshness and a summery zing to the plate. All it takes is a couple of minutes chopping and slicing, a few minutes under the grill and they're ready. Be careful though, a hot tomato can be like sticking the glowing embers of a barbecue in your mouth. And no sane person would do that.Ingredients6 small ripe tomatoes1 clove of garlic, about the size of the tip of your thumbA small sprig of rosemary leavesA sprig of thyme leaves1 tbsp dried oreganoMaldon Salt and pepper to seasonGood balsamic vinegar I use Saporoso. It's not cheap, but it does last a long time.Olive oilMethodHeat the grill to high.Slice the tomatoes across their equators and lay on an oven tray or cast iron pan.Finely chop the garlic and herbs. Season the tomatoes and sprinkle them with the garlic and herb mix. Drizzle with a little balsamic and olive oil and grill for about 5-8 minutes until softened and starting to turn golden.Serve on toasted sourdough with another drizzle of the best olive oil you can.
brunch
Beautiful bubble and squeak
In our house, it’s pretty rare for there to be any crackling left over from a roast pork – or, come to think of it, much pork. But when that does happen, I like making this version of bubble and squeak for brunch the next day. This deserves to be a dish in its own right, so it is even worth making it from scratch.Serves: 4Cooking time: 20 minsIngredientsUse whatever leftovers you have from the roast, or failing that:Shredded slow roast gammon and shattered crackling10 roast potatoes, lightly crushed with a fork½ a Savoy cabbage, finely sliced and blanched in salted water3 spring onions, shredded1 red onion, finely sliced1 tbsp Olive oil and tbsp butter to fry (or use the gammon dripping)3 dill cucumber picklesSalt and pepper to seasonMethod
- Mix together all the ingredients in a bowl and season well.
- Heat a frying pan and add the oil and butter until hot.
- Throw in the cabbage and potatoes, cook well, adding the red and spring onion at the last minute.
- Serve on warm plates with shredded cooked ham, crackling and sliced pickles, with a touch of wholegrain mustard.
How to food style it
- With this one, the cabbage forms a great base to structure the flakes of meat, potatoes and onions on. Try to give it form and height.
- Laying shards of crackling and slivers of spring onion on top helps give it elegance and leads your eye across the whole dish, bringing everything together.
- A spoon of mustard and some sliced pickles finish it off, keeping it elegant while still remaining rustic. It is, after all, a dish of leftovers.