A King's Ramson

It's a short-lived season, much like the elderflowers that grow at the bottom of the garden, but it's one, rather like the flowering of the magnolia tree, that brings me great happiness. In the past, I have tended to use wild garlic only for a risotto. Failing that, I just lie face down among the leaves and breathe deeply, occasionally chomping on a flower like a demented Eeyore.Summer is here more or less and the cupboards and fridge groans with colour and often fruit flies if I'm forgetful. It's the season that makes cooking easy. When you've got such fresh and vibrant ingredients readily available, if not in your garden then on your greengrocers shelves and market stalls, meals can be put together in hardly any time and with the minimum of fuss.This morning, I popped into my in-laws for a cup of coffee after taking the children to school and returned home with a bag full of snails, ladybirds, a bit of a slug and some other unidentified black dots with legs. Among the wildlife, I managed to fit in a few bunches of wild garlic leaves and the seed pods, I've missed the flowers this year.After a good wash of both the leaves and me (I feel I still have an insect or two lurking somewhere about my person), I quickly pulsed them in the processor and set about this dish with the enthusiastic thought of lunch. Feel free to replace the haddock with clams or perhaps monkfish.. It's just what I had in the fridge. And if you don't have any lapsang, just a little vegetable stock will work just as well.Ingredients20 wild garlic leaves50-75ml olive oil1tsp fennel seedsA small handful of pistachios2tbsp lemon juiceOne and a half small red onions, finely slicedOne celery stick, finely dicedSome thymeA spoonful of butterA handful of pearl barleyA mug of lightly brewed and strained lapsang suchong tea200g haddock, in chunksSalt to tasteA pinch of chilli flakesSome lemon zestA few fennel fronds if you have themMethodPulse the leaves, oil, fennel seeds, pistachios, oil and lemon juice together until you have a coarse paste. Taste and season if needed.Melt the butter in a saucepan and add 3/4 of the onion, thyme and the celery. Cook until softened, season and add the pearl barley. Cook for a minute or two before adding the lapsang then simmer for about 10-15 minutes until cooked, but with bite.Add the fish and cook gently for about three to four minutes.Remove the fish from the pan and stir through a little of the pesto and the remaining red onion. Serve the barley with the fish, a drizzle more of the pesto, the chilli flakes, lemon zest and fennel.

A Peach of a Pudding

For me peaches are the fruit that means summer. There's nothing quite like the taste and soft texture, and the juice which invariably runs down your chin is sticky, sweet and delicious.You may ask why, in that case, is there any need to do anything to this fruit other than eat it as it comes? And while I'd be inclined to agree, sometimes pairing ingredients makes them more than the sum of their parts and can elevate them to something sublime.This recipe is a delicious way to end those long lunches outside in the sun. The syrup is sweet and slightly exotic tasting and the vanilla and cloves in it are a classic match with the peach. A quick poaching of the fruit somehow mellows and intensifies the flavour at the same time and using jasmine tea gives a delicate floral taste. This is best served cool, so make it early and leave it to rest while you tuck in to lunch.Ingredients100g coconut sugar (or unrefined brown sugar)150ml brewed jasmine green tea1 vanilla pod, split open3 cloves2 black cardamom pods, seeds only4 flat peachesA few sprigs of thymeMethodPut everything except the peaches and thyme in a saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring every now and then. Boil for about two minutes, then turn off and leave to infuse for about half an hour.After it's been cooling for about ten minutes, stab the bottom of the peaches a few times then sit them in the syrup for twenty minutes.Bring back to the boil and simmer the peaches for about three minutes each side. Serve the peaches with some thyme leaves and plenty of the syrup.It's too late now, but Bee has suggested sprinkling crumble topping all over these. That sounds amazing. It would also probably be nice to have a glass of iced tea with it. Maybe I'll try that next time.

Provençal Tomatoes

Good food to me generally means simple food done well with thought and care. It makes sense that if you have good ingredients, you're off to a good start. There's nothing more disappointing in life than a pale, white airship of a tomato when you know how good a ripe, deep red one can and should taste. There's little point in bothering, far better to eat something else.And it can also be the little touches that elevate a meal. A good hand with the seasoning, the right herbs, good olive oil or that dash of fish sauce in your scrambled eggs. You don't need to be making spheres and foams to eat well. I've always seen that as the food equivalent of haute couture. No-one really wants to wear that stuff, but ideas do trickle down to real clothes.These tomatoes are amazing squished slightly into toasted slices of sourdough bread. We had them on the weekend as part of a brunch and they were the star. Bringing fruitiness, freshness and a summery zing to the plate. All it takes is a couple of minutes chopping and slicing, a few minutes under the grill and they're ready. Be careful though, a hot tomato can be like sticking the glowing embers of a barbecue in your mouth. And no sane person would do that.Ingredients6 small ripe tomatoes1 clove of garlic, about the size of the tip of your thumbA small sprig of rosemary leavesA sprig of thyme leaves1 tbsp dried oreganoMaldon Salt and pepper to seasonGood balsamic vinegar I use Saporoso. It's not cheap, but it does last a long time.Olive oilMethodHeat the grill to high.Slice the tomatoes across their equators and lay on an oven tray or cast iron pan.Finely chop the garlic and herbs. Season the tomatoes and sprinkle them with the garlic and herb mix. Drizzle with a little balsamic and olive oil and grill for about 5-8 minutes until softened and starting to turn golden.Serve on toasted sourdough with another drizzle of the best olive oil you can.

The Perfect Omelette, or an oeuf is an oeuf.

I always want chips and a green salad with my omelette. It may sound like something you'd get in the greasiest of London cafés, but my memory of it is sitting outside a brasserie in Grenoble, the sun flickering through the leaves in the square. I drank citron pressé, which is de rigeur, naturellement.An omelette, done well is the best. But it's so easy to mess up. So here's my quick cut out and keep guide to the perfect omelette:Get an omelette pan. They're cheap, but do the job they're designed for. Iron, no coating and no plastic handles. Heat it for about ten minutes before cooking. This means there won't be any cold spots.Use rapeseed oil. Not too much. High smoke point.  Get it very hot before adding the eggs.Lightly whisk three good eggs per omelette in a bowl 40 times with a fork. Season and add a splash of milk.Pour the mixture into the pan and draw the egg in to the centre from the outside. An omelette should take no longer than one minute to cook.Don't overcook it. Stop while it's still slightly runny. It will continue to cook on the plate.Add the cheese at the end and fold the omelette before sliding it out of the pan.Keep it simple. Dried herbes de Provence, some cheese and ham at most.Serve immediately. That's it.

French Tarts, or Taking the Pisaladière

I love a French tart. As Barry Cryer once said, "if you want an innuendo, I'll give you one", but that is beside the point. I prefer them sweet, but I'm not averse to the occasional savoury one such as tomato and herbs or roast vegetable. The best by far though, is the pisaladière. Sadly, I'm the only anchovy fan in this house which means we never have it. It's not the kind of thing you make in single portions. I have, therefore, made this alternative which uses strong olives and mushroom powder. I find the olives a pretty good substitute and often use them in salsa verde too.The key to this is long and slow. You must  take the onions out for a romantic meal, a walk along the Seine, across the Pont Neuf with the lights of Notre Dame twinkling behind you. You must slowly kiss along their arm, whispering sweet nothings by the light of the moon.Then, and only then can you think about the next stage. What's good about this dish is that it is fairly effortless, unless you make your own puff pastry- which I would recommend every once in a while, and yields results that are far greater than the sum of its parts.That is to say, that like the French, you do a little work, then have a long break and sit down to lunch. Whether you have an affair in between is up to you. But the melting, sweet onions and the slightly sharp saltiness of the olives combined with the crisp flakiness of the pastry make this an affair to remember.Ingredients500g white onions, finely slicedSalt to seasonOlive oil320g puff pastryA few sprigs of thymeA pinch of rosemary leaves1tbsp dried mushroom powderA few handfuls of mixed olives, sliced and choppedExcellent olive oil to drizzle (I have a separate special bottle for this purpose)MethodCook the onions in some olive oil in a lidded pan with a pinch of salt, the thyme and rosemary for about an hour on the lowest heat you can. Take the lid of for the final 15 minutes then leave to cool.Heat the oven to 180c.Roll out the pastry on to a lined 32cm baking sheet and trim the pastry to fit. If you've made your own, bravo. It will make a difference. If, however, you feel life is too short or you just couldn't be bothered, never mind. It will still be delicious. (Try and get all butter puff pastry if you buy it.)Prick the base all over with a fork then spread over the onion, leaving a one centimetre gap around the edge. Brush the edge with beaten egg.Spread the onion all over, dust with the mushroom powder then dot with the olives. Cook for about 15-18 minutes until the pastry is golden. This is best served warm, not hot, so leave to cool for about 20 minutes. A tomato salad with the hint of shallot and some crusty baguette is perfect with this.

Argy-Bhaji

I start to panic if I run out of onions. They're an absolute necessity in our house. How something so pungent when raw can be so seductive when cooked is a mystery. From onion soup to the base of a thousand sauces they must be one of the most versatile ingredients we have. And yes, even raw with some cucumber, tomato and coriander they're delicious. I just tend to rinse them a little to take the edge off.The naughtiness of a fried onion bhaji with its crisp edges and soft insides makes the onion seem illicit. I know deep-frying gets a bad press, but for me, it's more about the arse-ache of getting the fryer down and then the oil clean up afterwards that would have BP blanching. So unless I'm going all out, I bake them in the oven. They're just as delicious and yes, that little bit healthier.Two onions is enough for a small portion each. And I like to serve them with a spicy mango chilli sauce Bee's aunt Felicity brought down from Wiltshire. You can vary the spices as you like, I tend to throw a few different things in depending on my mood, but there is always ground cumin, ground coriander and ground turmeric in there. I added some ajwain and nigella seeds this time. Can you imagine?! What would the neighbours say?Ingredients2 white onions, very finely sliced on a mandoline1tbsp chickpea flour2tsp ground cumin2tsp groud coriander1tsp ground turmeric1tsp ajwain seeds1tsp nigella seedsSalt and pepper to season1tbsp olive oil, or even better, one of those spray oil thingsMethodCook the onions really slowly in some olive oil with a little salt until soft and golden. About 15 minutes.Mix them with the remaining ingredients in a bowl then divide into six to eight portions. Shape them with your hands and put on a baking tray. Cook at 180c for about 15 minutes until golden brown and crisp. Serve immediately.

Salad Daze

The more food I eat, and I do so with every passing day, the more I love the simple things. Last night we had spaghetti al pomodoro, using a jar of beautiful Italian plum tomatoes cooked with long softened onion, garlic, some good olive oil and a snowstorm of Parmesan. The key was the tomatoes. It's only May here, so we're not likely to have great ones, and while you can get pretty good tinned ones (I use Cirio as my storecupboard tins) it's worth every now and then splashing out on a really good jar of Italian ones and Antica Enotria are brilliant. If your dish is this simple, you really need great ingredients. It's as simple as that.We had salad on the table every day growing up, and I try and keep that going. I'm not a great fan of salad as the main meal, but I love it as an accompaniment. Summer tomato salads with chopped shallot, balsamic and oil; a little chicory, pear and walnut; fennel and orange; cucumber and dill. They bring colour and freshness to the table. But my salad of choice you probably couldn't even call a salad. It's just gem lettuce and a good mustardy vinaigrette. You can't get much simpler than that. Maybe it's the dressing I love and use the leaves as a healthy and edible spoon to scoop it into my mouth. You can add a touch of garlic to this if you like, but be careful to not put too much in. Even half a clove can be a bit much.This dressing keeps for about a week in the fridge and should stay emulsified if you've made it well. It's also great mixed through some warm new potatoes and sprinkled with chives.Ingredients1 tbsp Dijon mustardA pinch of Maldon salt (or kosher salt if you're in America)50ml tarragon cider vinegar. (Basically a bottle of cider vinegar you've stuck some sprigs of fresh tarragon in and left to infuse for a few days)150ml olive oil50ml rapeseed oilMethodPut the mustard and salt in a bowl and mix in the vinegar.Slowly, as if making mayonnaise, whisk in the oil, drop by drop at first until it starts to thicken and emulsify. Continue until it's all in and you have a thick dressing.Taste, and if you prefer it sharper, add a splash more vinegar. Or oil if you prefer it less acidic. I like mine on the poky side. Loosen it a little with a splash of cold water and pour it into a dressing bottle to store in the fridge.

Coda Alla Vaccinara

I love meat that needs cooking for hours until it falls apart. Cheek, shin and brisket for example all go really well in the slow cooker. Five minutes work at the beginning of the day and then in the evening you have a rich, delicious meal. Think Boeuf Bourgignon, pulled pork or lamb shanks in a rich tomato sauce.Most of the tougher meats are also the cheaper ones, which is ridiculous really. There's so much more flavour in the meat that's been well worked than in the lazy bits and I'm especially a fan of oxtail. Oxtail soup was very popular in England, but seeing as how I don't live in 1943, I never make it.This recipe is based on the Roman oxtail stew 'coda alla vaccinara' and while I also don't live in Ancient Rome, some dishes are timeless. Usually, raisins or candied fruit are added to give a sweet and sour taste to the dish, but I've left that out as I'm not a fan. I was tempted to serve it with some large prawns for the sweetness, I've been known to pair the two before. However, I've just kept this one simple and will serve the prawns on their own, charred with chilli, garlic, parsley and some good olive oil.This makes a great  sauce for pappardelle but works just as well on it's own and definitely tastes better the next day. It's also a great way to use up loads of celery. Is there anyone out there who actually has managed to get through a whole head of the stuff before it starts to limpen?If you don't have a slow cooker, just put it on the lowest possible heat and check it every now and then to make sure it's not burning. A good stir never hurt anyone. I would recommend getting one though, they're great, especially in the winter months when you need those cosier, richer meals to get you through the dark evenings. They also make a pretty good ersatz sous vide machine if you're that way inclined.Ingredients4 chunks of oxtail1 head of celery, chopped2 bay leaves1 medium stick of cinnmonA sprig of rosemarySome thymeA pinch of dried oregano1 tin of chopped tomatoesA tinful of beef stock or just water2 tbsp tomato pureeA glass of red wine thrown in if you fancySalt and plenty of pepper to season

Tart Me Up

There is no competition for me when it comes to tarts. If I had to choose one, even over tart au citron, tart tatin, tarte aux poires and chocolate tart, it would be the little glazed strawberry tarts with creme patissiere you get in Parisian bakeries. Unbeatable. However, I'm not in Paris as often as I'd like so they remain an occasional piece of heaven.Most tarts take a little effort though, and that's fine. But not this one. Today's recipe is a really quick shortbread tart with a simple chocolate ganache topped with fruit, herbs, chia seeds, honey and strawberry powder (you can use cocoa if you prefer).The base is the standard shortbread 1:2:3 recipe (sugar, butter, flour) but I've used coconut sugar and coconut flour instead. You can use caster and wheat if you prefer, the recipe is the same. This way gives a lovely coconutiness to the base which goes very well with the chocolate and is also gluten free for those of you who are gluten intolerant.You'll have some shortbread mix left over as well for bonus biscuits which you could use for this recipe or just plain with a cup of Earl Grey tea. Use your favourite soft fruits and plenty of honey. Pretend it's one of your 'five a day'.IngredientsFor the shortbread100g cold butter200g coconut sugar300g coconut flourFor the filling250ml double cream250g dark chocolate (70% cacao), smashed upBlueberries, raspberries, strawberries and kiwiA sprinkle of chia seeds1 tbsp raw honeyA few basil and thyme leaves1tbsp strawberry powderMethodMix together the butter flour and sugar in a bowl by hand until well combined and breadcrumb-like.Press evenly into a fluted 20cm (9") tart tin and bake at 170c for about ten minutes, or until golden brown. Make sure it's evenly cooked.Leave to cool while you make the filling.Bring the cream  to just below the boil then pour onto the chocolate and stir well until melted, glossy and smooth. Pour into the tart case then top with the fruit, chia seeds and herbs and leave somewhere cool to set.Drizzle with honey, add the herbs and dust the strawberry powder over to serve.

Stitched Up Like a Kipper

When I was a child my Grandad used to take me to get our kippers from the stone smokery near the small harbour beach at Craster. Since then, there have never been nicer kippers, to my mind.I remember it as a cold, grey place; windswept and damp. I've been back many times since, but it always seems slightly sad. Perhaps the smell of the smoke takes me back to those days, arriving after a long journey in the car in the rain.I've mentioned the kitchen at my Grandparent's house before. And just as the smell of freshly made coffee takes me back to my great Aunt's kitchen in the fifteenth arrondissement of Paris, the smell of kippers cooking, with just a touch of butter takes me back to Darras Hall, Ponteland thirty years or so ago.I do mine in the microwave these days. God knows what my Grandad would make of that, he lightly grilled them . Either way, the smell remains for a while, so learn to love it or cook with the windows wide open, burn some candles and warn the neighbours.I'm so pleased to have found the great L. Robson of Craster does mail order. It's not the same as putting your wellies on and wading on the muddy beach with your family, but it's a canny thing to receive in the post.

Rabbiting On

I'm getting fed up of the charmless new Peter Rabbit cartoons Noah and Maya are obsessed with on television, so I'm striking back, triumphing where Mr McGregor and Mr Todd failed. I'm cooking the things and feeding them to the children. See how they like that.Rabbit is not the easiest thing to buy in England, but your butcher should be able to get some. It's a shame the supermarkets don't really sell it, but I hope that will change. My favourite way to cook it has always been slowly, in a stew with vegetables and white wine and served with plenty of mustard. Really comforting and tasty.This is a tasty and comforting dish in its own right too. I love the creamy, butteryness of polenta and the capers and mustard cut nicely through the richness. The loin cooks in minutes making this a pretty speedy meal for rabbit lovers big and small. I didn't tell the children after all...Ingredients for two100g polenta. I like Bartolini instant350ml  water3tbsp butterSalt to seasonFor the sauce1tsp veal glace (if you don't have this, use 1/2 a beef stock cube or a tbsp beef stock concentrate)1tbsp capers1tsp Dijon mustard ( Il n'y a que Maille qui m'aille)150ml waterFor the rabbit4 rabbit loin fillets4tbsp coconut flour (use wheat if you prefer)1tbsp powdered, dried mushroomsOlive oil for fryingA few handfuls of pea shootsMethodGently cook the polenta in the water, butter and oil, stirring often and checking the seasoning. You may need to add more water and butter if you see fit. It should end up smooth and rich. Keep warm while you make the sauce and the rabbit.Dust the rabbit loins in the flour and mushroom powder then fry in hot oil for two minutes each side. Set aside and let rest for five minutes.Make the sauce by pouring the ingredients into the rabbit pan, stirring while it comes to the boil. Serve by putting the polenta in bowls, topping with the rabbit and sauce and then adding the pea shoots and a pinch of chilli flakes.

Spelt Out For You

Sometimes I like to pretend I'm an Italian nonna, sitting at a table outside my stone-walled house gently rolling fresh conchiglie as my black dress flaps in the breeze. I'd chat with my neighbours, the old Montalbano and Captain Alberto Bertorelli from 'Allo 'Allo, all of us fanning ourselves with our headscarves.Perhaps not, but I do like to take pasta making seriously. It's such a simple thing, yet comes in so many shapes and sizes. It can be like origami at its most intricate or as simple as cutting the sheet into strips. And that's what I've done here. You need to set aside some time to prepare the pasta, don't try and start this half an hour before you want to eat.I've used spelt flour this time, interchangeable with strong wheat flour, but sometimes it needs a little more moisture. This is something you'll have to judge by hand. You'll get used to it with practice.This recipe is simply a touch of garlic, marinated artichokes, lemon zest, chilli and parsley. Then topped, of course, with good olive oil. You can put this together just before the pasta cooks, it only takes a few minutes to warm in the pan.So sit down, channel your inner dolce vita and treat it like therapy. I like to play the soundtrack to Big Night or songs by Olivia Sellerio and drift into the olive groves.Ingredients (for 4 people)400g spelt flour2 eggs2 egg yolksA large pinch of salt1tbsp olive oilFor the 'sauce'1 clove of garlic, finely choppedA jar of artichokes marinated in olive oil and herbs1 red chilli, slicedZest of one lemonOlive oilSalt and pepper to seasonMethodMake a volcano of flour and salt on the kitchen surface and put the eggs, yolks and olive oil in the middle. Gradually work the flour into the yolks in a circular motion, drawing it in until everything is well mixed and breadcrumb-like.Knead the dough for about ten minutes until stretchy and supple. If it's dry and flaky, add a splash of water. Wrap the dough in clingfilm and rest it in the fridge for at least half an hour. When you bring it out, it should be golden and silky feeling.If you have a pasta machine, roll the dough out gradually to the thinnest setting and lay the sheets on the counter, covering them with paper so they don't dry out. If you don't, you'll have to use a rolling pin and a good bit of elbow grease. But if nonna can do it, so can you.Roll a sheet up lengthwise and cut it into thin strips. Put them in a tray, dust them well with more flour and a bit of semolina and continue until finished. Dry them out a little on the backs of chairs or coat hangers before cooking. It helps a little with the texture. If you don't need all of it, completely dry what you want to keep and store in an airtight container. If you don't want your kitchen to look like goldilocks has been scalped you can cook the pasta straight away.Heat a sauté pan and gently soften the garlic with the olive oil. Add the chilli amd artichoke and warm through. Season and stir through the parsley and lemon zest.Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling, salted water for two minutes, drain and add to the sauté pan. Mix well and serve.

Soba As a Judge

It's a good thing in life to experiment and to find out how things are made by having a go yourself. Sometimes, as with bread, pasta, stock and so on, it's much better to make your own. And sometimes, it's better left to experts, or people with big machines. I broke my food processor making almond butter and almonds aren't cheap. Far more expensive and time consuming that just buying a jar of the bloody stuff.The same goes for soba noodles. Just buy them. It's much easier than making them by hand as I did. Which is now on the list with almond butter. Buckwheat flour is a tricky flour to work with as it has no gluten in it, so you need to meditate for a few years by a wintery mountain stream before you have sufficient expertise to make noodles with it.Honestly, it's not worth the bother.I would, however, make my own miso if I had the stuff, as Yuki from Yuki's Kitchen here in Crystal Palace does. But, a good jar of miso paste (I like Clearspring Organic) will keep forever in the fridge, and a spoonful of that, boiling water, some noodles and a few sprouting seeds is a delicious and quick cleansing, earthy dish. I often have a mug of miso instead of tea or coffee first thing in the morning.Try and buy pure buckwheat noodles. Some have wheat flour in them because it's easier to make it that way, but it's a bit of a cheat. A few prawns are a good addition for some extra protein and flavour, but I like to keep this dish pure and simple. It's pretty good for a low calorie day.Ingredients40g soba noodles1-2tbsp miso paste depending on taste1 handful of alfalfa sprouts or similarMethodBoil the noodles in water until cooked then drain, keeping the waterAdd the miso paste to the water and whisk well until it dissolves.Add the noodles and sprouts to a bowl, top with the miso soup and serve.

Salad Days

I love fennel, and I especially love it cooked. It's gentler and softer. A bit like Frank Bruno compared to Mike Tyson.Maya, my daughter, has become especially taken with baby cucumbers recently, and hoovers up cherry tomatoes quicker than a hoover. I have a couple of boxes of the cucumbers in the fridge, and before I pickle them (if she doesn't eat them all first) I've used some in this salad, enjoyed in the calm of a weekday lunch alone. I would have added petits pois, had I not left them in a bowl on the other bench, but this was delicious enough.The borage flowers, lightly cucumbery themselves, made their delicate presence felt and the slight sweet sharpness of the tomatoes cut through nicely.The fennel, still slightly warm was soothing against the crunch of the cucumber. I went back for more.IngredientsHalf a fennel bulb per person, sliced1 baby cucumber each, sliced lengthwaysSome cherry tomatoes, sliced in halfA sprinkle of borage flowersA few tablespoons of toasted pine nutsPeas if you want themFor the dressing:1tsp Dijon mustard2tsp sherry vinegar1tsp tamarind paste (or double the lemon juice if you don't have any. It just adds a fruity sharpness)1tsp lemon juice2tbsp walnut oil2tbsp olive oilA pinch of saltMethodHeat a griddle pan to high, drag the fennel through some olive oil and season.Grill until charred a little on each side.Put on plates and top with the remaining ingredients. Season and pour over the dressing.

Ooh, saucy.

In the time it's taken for you to read this sentence, you could have already made this tomato sauce. It's that quick. I make mine in my NutriBullet, but a stick blender or food processor will do the job too.Make sure you use juicy, ripe tomatoes. Tinned are also a good bet when we're not quite at the height of tomato season. You can make this while the pasta is cooking, and then just stir it in and heat for a minute or two. It really does take ten seconds and is also great as a sauce for homemade pizza.Ingredients400g tomatoes, fresh or tinned2 cloves of garlic1 small onion1tbsp dried oreganoA small pour of olive oilSalt and pepperMethodBlitz all the ingredients together until smooth, heat through and serve with the pasta. See, it doesn't even need cooking, really.

Eurovision

Here we are, on the sofa. It's Eurovision time. I've managed to cook ten dishes, failing to include Australia. Let's see how the evening goes, but I have a feeling we'll not finish everything...

You've Pulled

There'd probably be a punch up about who first baked bread and covered it with toppings. Probably, as with everything it was invented in ancient Egypt. Or China. Or Greece. I bet it wasn't Italy and certainly not Hawaii. It doesn't really matter though, it's a great idea. A hoi sin and duck covered pizza, as I once saw advertised, is not. What kind of psychopath comes up with these things?It's hard to beat the crisp crust and soft dough of a traditional Italian pizza and it's near impossible to recreate at home. Flatbreads, however, are much simpler and delicious in their own right. They take hardly any time to make either. And this recipe, once you've got the lamb in the oven pretty much takes care of itself. If you want, you can leave the lamb cooking overnight on a very low heat, but if like us, you have an oven that sounds quite similar to Concorde taking off, you may want to cook it during the day.Get everything prepped first thing, though, and it's just a case of assembly. There may seem to bea lot of ingredients, but there's nothing unusual here. It's all great the next day too, apart from the bread, that should be cooked as freshly as possible.IngredientsFor the lamb1/2 lamb shoulder4tbsp harissa2tbsp ground cumin1 red onion, puréed2 cloves of garlic, puréed2tbsp olive oilSalt and pepper to seasonFor the tabouleh50g buckwheat, cooked200g parsley, finely chopped3tbsp olive oilSmall bunch of chopped mintJuice and zest of a lemon6 cherry tomatoes1tbsp sumacA handful of pomegranate seedssalt and pepperFor the bread280g white bread flour20g semolina200ml water7g sachet of yeastA large pinch of saltMethodMix together the lamb coating ingredients in a large dish. Stab the lamb all over a few times just to be sure then massage in the rub. Cook in a low oven for about six to eight hours. Remove and leave to cool. You wont be able to resist picking at it. This is almost the best part, pulling the meat away, licking your fingers and secretly stuffing your face in the kitchen. When cool, you can shred it with your hands or a couple of forks. Put all the meat in a large bowl and set aside.While the lamb is cooking, make the bread and tabouleh.Mix together all the tabouleh ingredients and taste to check the seasoning and balance. Adjust as you see fit.Mixt the bread ingredients together, adding the water a little at a time as you mix it in. Knead for about five minutes, cover and leave to rise for half an hour.Divide into six balls and roll out flat into circles about 3mm thick.Heat a frying pan (I prefer cast iron for this, but don't worry too much) until really hot andcook the bread one at a time until it puffs up and turns golden in parts. You can then flip it and put it directly on the flame to finish if you have gas. Can't do that on an induction can you, eh?Wrap the breads in a towel and leave until ready.Serve the breads topped with the tabouleh and shredded lamb with a spoonful or two of tahini and natural youghurt.

Chilli and Garlic Squid with Courgette

Bee has gone out again, leaving me alone to play with my favourite cupboard in the kitchen, The Cabinet of Curiosities. For once, though, I'm not tempted by dried fish souflé with truffle juice and barberry powder. As tempting as that may sound to you, you'll have to write that recipe yourself. Don't fear though, here's a five minute dish that is the epitome of quick, simple cooking with good, fresh ingredients. I don't often eat squid at home, so tonight was the perfect opportunity. The cupboard can wait.Squid, quickly seared and served with a little kick of chilli flakes, salt and pepper is one of my favourite snacks. Even better if it's in a light batter. Batter light than never I always say. The perfect sunshine accompaniment to a cold sparkling drink outside.You could use papardelle pasta if you prefer the carbs, but I was on a low calorie day anyway so held back.Ingredients (for two people)250g small squid1 Courgette2 small cloves of garlic, crushed1 red chilli, as hot as you likeOlive oilSalt and pepperLemon zestShave some ribbons of courgette with a vegetable peeler and sauté them for no longer than a minute with the garlic and a sliced red chilli. Put that on the side, heat the pan to vesuvius levels, throw in a splash of olive oil and cook your well seasoned squid for about a minute each side before mixing with the courgette.Serve with lemon zest, a good twist of pepper and some chilli flakes. Pretty easy really.