It's a short-lived season, much like the elderflowers that grow at the bottom of the garden, but it's one, rather like the flowering of the magnolia tree, that brings me great happiness. In the past, I have tended to use wild garlic only for a risotto. Failing that, I just lie face down among the leaves and breathe deeply, occasionally chomping on a flower like a demented Eeyore.Summer is here more or less and the cupboards and fridge groans with colour and often fruit flies if I'm forgetful. It's the season that makes cooking easy. When you've got such fresh and vibrant ingredients readily available, if not in your garden then on your greengrocers shelves and market stalls, meals can be put together in hardly any time and with the minimum of fuss.This morning, I popped into my in-laws for a cup of coffee after taking the children to school and returned home with a bag full of snails, ladybirds, a bit of a slug and some other unidentified black dots with legs. Among the wildlife, I managed to fit in a few bunches of wild garlic leaves and the seed pods, I've missed the flowers this year.After a good wash of both the leaves and me (I feel I still have an insect or two lurking somewhere about my person), I quickly pulsed them in the processor and set about this dish with the enthusiastic thought of lunch. Feel free to replace the haddock with clams or perhaps monkfish.. It's just what I had in the fridge. And if you don't have any lapsang, just a little vegetable stock will work just as well.Ingredients20 wild garlic leaves50-75ml olive oil1tsp fennel seedsA small handful of pistachios2tbsp lemon juiceOne and a half small red onions, finely slicedOne celery stick, finely dicedSome thymeA spoonful of butterA handful of pearl barleyA mug of lightly brewed and strained lapsang suchong tea200g haddock, in chunksSalt to tasteA pinch of chilli flakesSome lemon zestA few fennel fronds if you have themMethodPulse the leaves, oil, fennel seeds, pistachios, oil and lemon juice together until you have a coarse paste. Taste and season if needed.Melt the butter in a saucepan and add 3/4 of the onion, thyme and the celery. Cook until softened, season and add the pearl barley. Cook for a minute or two before adding the lapsang then simmer for about 10-15 minutes until cooked, but with bite.Add the fish and cook gently for about three to four minutes.Remove the fish from the pan and stir through a little of the pesto and the remaining red onion. Serve the barley with the fish, a drizzle more of the pesto, the chilli flakes, lemon zest and fennel.
celery
Coda Alla Vaccinara
I love meat that needs cooking for hours until it falls apart. Cheek, shin and brisket for example all go really well in the slow cooker. Five minutes work at the beginning of the day and then in the evening you have a rich, delicious meal. Think Boeuf Bourgignon, pulled pork or lamb shanks in a rich tomato sauce.Most of the tougher meats are also the cheaper ones, which is ridiculous really. There's so much more flavour in the meat that's been well worked than in the lazy bits and I'm especially a fan of oxtail. Oxtail soup was very popular in England, but seeing as how I don't live in 1943, I never make it.This recipe is based on the Roman oxtail stew 'coda alla vaccinara' and while I also don't live in Ancient Rome, some dishes are timeless. Usually, raisins or candied fruit are added to give a sweet and sour taste to the dish, but I've left that out as I'm not a fan. I was tempted to serve it with some large prawns for the sweetness, I've been known to pair the two before. However, I've just kept this one simple and will serve the prawns on their own, charred with chilli, garlic, parsley and some good olive oil.This makes a great sauce for pappardelle but works just as well on it's own and definitely tastes better the next day. It's also a great way to use up loads of celery. Is there anyone out there who actually has managed to get through a whole head of the stuff before it starts to limpen?If you don't have a slow cooker, just put it on the lowest possible heat and check it every now and then to make sure it's not burning. A good stir never hurt anyone. I would recommend getting one though, they're great, especially in the winter months when you need those cosier, richer meals to get you through the dark evenings. They also make a pretty good ersatz sous vide machine if you're that way inclined.Ingredients4 chunks of oxtail1 head of celery, chopped2 bay leaves1 medium stick of cinnmonA sprig of rosemarySome thymeA pinch of dried oregano1 tin of chopped tomatoesA tinful of beef stock or just water2 tbsp tomato pureeA glass of red wine thrown in if you fancySalt and plenty of pepper to season