Sri Lankan Beetroot and Coconut Curry

First of all, if you don't like beetroot, please leave the room becausea: I don't trust youb: you won't like this curry. It tastes of beetroot.For those of you still here, this is a rather special curry. One of those where the taste lingers long after in the mind. In fact, I was dreaming of this dish the day after I made it, keen to cook it again at the soonest opportunity. It's rich, soothing, earthy, firey (and possibly windy), and the dense texture of the beetroot is quite unusual in that the in the curries I usually have, the main ingredient is soft, tender long cooked meat that falls apart, delicate prawns, or meaty fish. This has bite. And the sauce... dredging the chapatis through the deep burgundy velvet is an indecent event.I'd stress the importance of fresh curry leaves. Don't bother with dried ones really. At the very least, use fresh curry leaves you have frozen (which they are very good for). I normally buy quite a few bags and keep them in the freezer just in case. They are so distinct and have such a recognisable aroma when they hit the hot coconut oil in the pan that they immediately hit my memory button of being in Sri Lanka.You can use the base of this curry with prawns if you like and it will be delicious. But please, try this one. You can have a prawn curry any boring old time.Ingredients2tbsp coconut oil4 large beetroot1tsp mustard seeds. I used yellow, but you can useblack1 small cinnamon stick1tbsp ground coriander4 green chillies, sliced (I'd go up to six)1 garlic clove, crushed1 onion, finely slicedA handful of fresh curry leaves1tsp grated fresh turmeric root1/2tsp grated ginger1 tin of coconut milk2tbsp pistachios, chopped2tbsp dessicated coconutSome coriander leavesFor the chapatis:300g wholewheat flour170ml warm waterA good pinch of salt1tsp garam masalaMethodHeat the coconut oil in a large wide pan and add the mustard seeds. When they start to pop add the cinnamon stick and onion. Stir well, season a little and cook gently until the onions start to soften and turn golden. Add the turmeric, coriander, garlic and ginger then stir in the curry leaves.Add the chillies and beetroot, stir well and cook for a few minutes. Pour in the coconut milk and mix well.Bring to the boil then turn to a low simmer and cook for about 45 minutes, turning the beetroot occasionally so they cook evenly and the sauce reduces and thickens.If the sauce gets too thick, add a splash of hot water and stir well. Taste, adjust the seasoning and leave to rest while you make the chapatis.Mix the flour, salt, garam masala and water together in a bowl until it forms a dough. Knead for a few minutes then divide into eight balls. Heat a cast iron skillet until red hot and thinly roll out a dough ball into a circle. Cook it in the dry pan until it starts to bubble up. Flip it over and cook until the other side bubbles. If you have a gas hob, finish each bread directly on the flame for about 20 seconds, they puff up really well and char a little.Repeat until you have used all the dough.Heat the curry through, sprinkle over the pistachios, coconut and coriander and serve with the chapatis and some basmati rice if you like.

Carrot and Pea Salad with Cumin Oil and Aïoli

I've been a little less than enthusiastic about cooking the past week. It happens every now and then. Coming up every day with something exciting to eat for supper can be a train that runs out of steam occasionally. Getting back late from shoots and peering into an uninspiring fridge means we've also eaten out and had takeaway more than usual recently.Mostly, I'm up to the challenge and will happily cook a quick prawn curry, a risotto or simple pasta with salad. Last week even that was beyond me. It happens. Perhaps it's the laziness of summer, the thought of holidays and eating lunches by the water's edge, white linen tablecloths and the clinking of ice in glasses. But last night, I roused myself from my torpor and cooked a simple steak with asparagus and baby potatoes with chive butter. There was a delicious tomato salad with balsamic on the side and a bowl of green leaves, lightly dressed with vinaigrette to cut through. It was lovely.But the most delicious part of it was the final potato, crushed into the buttery juices of the steak, mopping up the mustard and melting into my mouth. That alone would have made a great dish.Today, with a little more time I'm making a carrot salad for lunch. I've jazzed it up with some fun ingredients. It's worth every now and then going out of your way to buy strange things such as cucamelons or shiso leaves, it adds a little wow factor. Just buy or grow what you can and have fun, remembering to use good things simply. They often speak for themselves.This salads simplicity, colourfulness and delicacy is just as exciting to look at as it is fresh, delicious and healthy to eat. If you don't like anchovy, leave them out of the mayonnaise, but they are a taste worth acquiring.IngredientsFor the cumin oil:100ml olive oil2tbsp cumin seedsFor the aioli:1 egg1 anchovy, chopped1 small clove of garlic, crushed1tsp Dijon mustardOlive oilFor the salad:A bunch of baby carrots, a mix of purple, yellow and orangeA handful of pea shootsA handful of fresh peasA punnet of cucamelons, halved, if you can get them (I use Mash Purveyors), if not, some chopped cucumberShiso leaves and flowers (Use mint leaves if unavailable)A head of fennel seeds just starting to flower, otherwise dried ones are fineSome carrot leavesMethodMake the cumin oil first. Heat a small pan with the olive oil and add the cumin seeds. Heat until the cumin becomes aromatic, then turn off the heat and leave to cool.Make the aioli. I use a jam jar as I find it emulsifies a little easier than whisking in a bowl. Blend together the mustard, anchovy, garlic and yolk and slowly drizzle in the oil, drop by drop at first, whisking all the time until you have a thick sauce. Keep going until you have half a jarful. This keeps in the fridge for a couple of days.Thinly slice the carrots and pile up on a plate with the other ingredients. Drizzle over the cooled cumin oil and serve with the aioli.

Fougasse

Sometimes I get whims. A baguette here, a tray of soft buns there. This morning I was taken by the desire to bake some fougasse.I used my usual dough mix for this. It's always amazing to see the difference a shape can make to the taste and texture of a recipe.This bread is soft in the middle and crisp on the outside with a good bite. You can add herbs and a handful of chopped olives to the mix if you fancy. Perfect with a plate of charcuterie and cheese. Bon appetit.Ingredients:500g strong white flour350ml warm water7g yeastA large pinch of salt1tbsp dried oreganoMethod:Mix the yeast and flour together and slowly add the water, stirring well. Add the salt and knead for about ten minutes in a machine if you have one. By hand if you prefer. It depends on my mood which one I do.Leave to rise for an hour then divide the dough in to two balls and roll out into a leaf shape. Transfer to a baking sheet and cut a line down the middle and three cross lines either side to make the leaf vein shapes. Cover and leave for another 15 minutes.Heat the oven to 200c and add a shallow tray of water to the bottom to create some steam which will give you a good crust.Bake the dough for about 20 minutes, remove from the oven and leave to cool before serving.   

Drunkard's Noodles

Yes, this is my second mushroom recipe this week, but I had to use them up somehow. And yes, it has noodles in it, but this couldn't be more different to the fettuccine with mushrooms dish if it tried. Although that's not strictly true, it could be soup. Or a croissant.This is a comforting as well as zingy meal. Sometimes we want that carby hit and a bowl of noodles is just the thing. This one seems almost healthy with all the basil.I've used 'chicken of the woods' here. Its texture and meatiness is so like chicken it is perfect with noodles or in stir fries, especially as we all should cut down on our meat eating. Make sure you use it as freshly as possible, it starts to develop a slightly spongy texture if you keep it too long. If you can't get hold of it, use tofu instead, or feel free to use chicken or prawns if you're keen on the meat.Ingredients (for two):Rapeseed oil and chilli oil if you have it2 cloves of garlic, finely sliced2tbsp soy sauce1tbsp fish sauce80ml water2 red chillies, sliced plus more to finish if you like it hotter1 thumb of galangal, grated (or ginger if you don't have any)200g chicken of the woods, thickly sliced1/2 red onion, sliced2 eggs, beaten1 small turmeric root, grated100g 'sen leek' noodles (folded rice noodles) - cookedA large handful of holy basil leaves per personMethod:Mix the soy, fish sauce and turmeric in a bowl.Heat some oil in a wok and gently fry the galangal, garlic and onion. Turn the heat up and add the mushrooms. Season with a little salt and add some chilli oil. Fry until golden in parts and softened. Turn the heat back down.Add the egg to the pan and scramble gently. Pour in the soy mix, chillies and noodles stir and add the water. Turn up the heat and heat through. Mix through loads of the Thai basil, add a drizzle of chilli oil and more chillies if you like it hot, which I do.

Fungi To Be Around

Just as I was packing away my shorts, chucking out the sun cream and darkly muttering about the "nights drawing in", the bloody sun finally comes out. I was conceding defeat and willing to go straight from Spring to Autumn (which is my favourite season, so there are positives). Now, everywhere I go people have stopped complaining about how rubbish our summer is to complaining about how it's too hot.This is further confused by my job. We generally are at least a month or two ahead when it comes to shooting ingredients or writing recipes. We shoot Christmas in July, Easter at Christmas, Autumn in Summer and I'm always having to find impossible ingredients. It's nearly mushroom season though, and after a shoot this week for September, I have a great box of them. So here is one of my favourite recipes for pasta. Silky and earthy with a pinch of heat.A good pasta dish can be hard to beat. I had a fantastic spaghetti alle vongole with bottarga at Mediterranea on the weekend with my parents. I could have been sitting in the square in Forte di Marmi eating it with the sun guaranteed, gushing on about how you can't get food like this back home. But here we are, so instead, I'll pretend it's Autumn and get the umbrella out. At least I can also use it as a parasol if the sun sticks around.Ingredients:1 clove of garlic, crushed4 large porcini, sliced2 handfuls of chanterelles200g fettuccine al uovo1tbsp dried porcini mushroom powder1tbsp red chilli flakesGood olive oilA large pinch or two of chopped parsleyParmesan to serveSalt and pepperMethod:This is such a simple dish, but make sure you go heavy on the flavours. Cook the mushrooms just right and this will be a real winner. You could finish it with a little truffle oil if you like, just to give it that little extra.Bring a large pan of heavily salted water to the boil for the pasta.Heat a sauté pan with olive oil on a medium heat and add the garlic and mushrooms. Season well and add the mushroom powder if you have any. Stir well and cook until the mushrooms have softened and are golden. Don't let them dry out, but also don't take them out too soon so they're too liquid.Cook the pasta until al dente, drain and pour through a good glug of olive oil. Stir the chilli flakes and parsley into the mushrooms, check and adjust the seasoning and stir through the pasta. Serve immediately with a drizzle more of olive oil and a good helping of grated Parmesan.

Say Cheese

When I was at art college back in the last century and life was in black and white, we'd often indulge in haloumi kebabs after a night out. That was the first time I'd had this squeaky cheese, and fresh from the charcoal grill with hot chilli sauce I was hooked.These days, having children means I don't really remember what going out is. And with life far more civilised, I make my own kebabs and roast my haloumi. How grown up I must seem.Being a solid cheese, it holds its shape really well when cooked. And it takes up other flavours so well, making it ideal to wrap up with garlic, rosemary, lemons and the like. Here, I've used limes, caper and anchovy to give it a real punch and some sweet fresh snow peas and radish to cut through.After about half an hour, you'll have a delicious lunch with almost no effort. Great with some toast and a cold glass of something fizzy.Ingredients:1 halloumi block1tbsp capers1tsp chilli flakes1 anchovy fillet (replace with black olives if you prefer)1 lime, quartered2tsp dry thymeOlive oilMethod:Heat the oven to 180c.Wrap the cheese in  paper with the limes and garlic underneath and everything else on top. Fold over and wrap in foil.Cook for about 25-30 minutes, remove from the oven and serve with bread, olive oil and crudites.

Turnip for the Books

I had a couple of packets of baby turnips in the fridge. I always struggle with them, as in, what is their point? I've always thought of them as a bulbous, soft crunch of flavourlesness. A little like eating a toasted tennis ball.To give them a chance, I threw some of my favourite flavours at them, knowing that whatever I did would be an improvement. It's hard to improve upon slowly caramelised onions, and the thought of draping them over the turnips once they had been roasted in some chilli oil was enough to get the oven on first thing this morning.Three quarters of an hour later and I had a delicious mid-morning snack with enough chilli punch in it to finally get the day going after having survived my children's joint birthday party with no fatalities and I think all children safely returned. We may yet find one or two in the bushes.So turnips are safe, for now. This would make a splendid accompaniment to spatchcocked, grilled tandoori-spiced chicken or roast coriander and cumin slow-roast lamb shoulder. Now there's an idea for next weekend.Ingredients:A few packs of baby turnips2tbsp chilli oil1tbsp chilli flakes1/2 white onion1/2tsp ground coriander1/2tsp ground cumin1/2tsp ground turmeric1tsp ghee or vegetable oilSalt and pepper to seasonMethod:Heat the oven to 180c and roast the turnips, drizzled with the chilli oil for about 45 minutes.While they are cooking, finely slice the onion and slowly sauté in the ghee with the spices and a little seasoning. Cook slowly until they are golden and starting to ever so slightly caramelise.Spoon over the turnips, drizzle with a little more chilli oil and scatter with chilli flakes.Serve immediately, being careful to not burn your tongue on the onions like I did.

Ramen Corner

Before you start, this isn't ramen in the proper ramen way, more of a broth with some things in, one of those things being a beautiful piece of seared sirloin.But as with real ramen, the key is the depth of the stock, so try and use a homemade one full of flavour, and when heating it up for the final dish, add in kombu, plenty of fish sauce, lime and lemon juice. It's quick (well, once you've made the stock), nutritious and rammed with flavour.Ingredients (for two)150g sirloin fillet per person1l chicken stock1 book Choi, halvedA few slices of gingerTwo or three red chilliesA couple of garlic cloves, sliced60g cooked buckwheat noodles (soba)A few sheets of kombu, slicedA handful of coriander leaves2tbsp lime juice2tbsp lemon juice2tbsp fish sauceMethod:Bring the stock to the boil and keep hot.Sauté the garlic and sear the steak, then remove from the pan.Sear the book Choi quickly then add the kombu, lemon, lime and fish sauce to the broth with the chillies, ginger, noodles and garlic.Cook for a minute then put the cooked noodles, bok choi and steak in a bowl and pour over the broth and serve with coriander.

Burgers of Calais

Actually, this has nothing whatsoever to do with Calais, I've just always wanted to make that joke. And seeing as we're being robbed of a decent summer here in London, you've got to get the laughs where you can.Nothing quite beats a good burger, unless you're vegetarian of course. And nothing quite beats a homemade one either. You can add all kinds of spices and herbs to it to pep it up a little, or, you can keep it simple, but know exactly what's in it.I usually add some red onion compôte to my burger mix, but today I've just gone with finely chopped red onion. Added to that are some capers for a little zing, a few dried herbs (I find adding fresh ones too mimsy) and for smokiness, some paprika. Ready to cook after a little rest in the fridge to firm up and you can do this on the barbecue if you're somewhere sunny, or just on a hot griddle pan if you're in England.Maybe next year...Ingredients (per burger)150g good minced beef1tsp dried rosemary1tsp dried thyme1tsp smoked paprika1tsp capers1 tbsp chopped red onionSome beaten egg (1 between 2 burgers)1tbsp breadcrumbsPlenty of salt and pepper to seasonSome sliced red onionSome lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, mustard and ketchup and a good bun.Method:Mix all the burger ingredients together well and leave to rest for about 20 minutes in the fridge.Heat a griddle pan until smoking the. Cook the burger for about three minutes each side, longer if you prefer it well done. Cook the onion rings and toast the bun a little. I prefer sesame topped soft buns, a classic, but you may be trendy and want to use brioche... Your choice.Top a bun with lettuce, tomato and onion then add the burger, ketchup and mustard and eat with plenty of napkins.

Claws is Coming to Town

My freezer is sometimes an Aladdin's cave, sometimes a forgotten morgue. I've found pigs trotters, prawn and lobster shells, strange soups and chicken bones bagged and labeled under Thai broths, strange soup experiments and well intentioned litre upon litre of stock.

While it's great for fish fingers and other things for the children, I really need to be better at keeping it organised. I need a chest freezer in the shed for the bodies  more experimental stuff that I will use, just not on a daily, home basis.On one of the semi-regular inventories, I found a bag of crab claws, cooked and still with the tip attached. While nowhere near fresh crab, it's still a good back up for a quick snack.Defrosted, pepped up a little with spice, topped with the crunch of hazelnut, the fresh mineral zing of spinach and dipped in this lemony piquante mayonnaise, it made a great surprise lunch. Not that lunch was a surprise, it usually happens, more that is was better than the limp lettuce I had in the salad drawer. And that's another story...Ingredients:A load of cooked crab claws, frozen or fresh1tbsp Cayenne pepper1tsp chilli flakesA handful of chopped baby spinach leavesA handful of chopped hazelnutsSalt and pepperMayonnaise made in the usual way but with:1tbsp ground fenugreek1tbsp lemon juice2tbsp olive oil1tbsp Dijon mustardMethod:Make the mayonnaise, stirring in the extra ingredients and tasting to check the seasoning.Put the crab claws in a bowl and toss around in the spices, spinach and nuts. Season well.Serve the crab with the mayonnaise and some ice cold ginger beer.

Gooseberry with Mackerel, Chilli and Galangal

It's been such a long time since I've eaten gooseberries. Perhaps since childhood, picked from the bushes in friends' gardens. Maybe once in jam at Badger's Tea House in Alfriston. A really toothsome Victoria sponge with elderflower buttercream.We rely on supermarkets so much these days that it's easy to miss short seasons, food we all knew. If you're lucky enough to have a good farm shop (I have Franklin's near me), market or grocers nearby you should be able to get gooseberries. And for that matter lots of other stuff the big shops can't be bothered with.This recipe is a semi-classic, (in fact, 'groseille à maquereau' is French for gooseberry) but I've added a hint of spice to it to give it a little zing. You don't need a million ingredients to make a great meal, and as well as being incredibly quick to make, I'd be more than happy if I was served this in a restaurant.Use the freshest mackerel you can get, and if gooseberries aren't available, try rhubarb or grapefruit instead.Ingredients:2 mackerel fillets1/2tsp coconut oil2 green chillies, sliced1 thumb-sized piece of galangal1tbsp raw honeyA handful of gooseberries (depending on your hand size, about 160g)1/2tsp ground coriander2 cloves1tbsp double creamMustard cressA drizzle of lemon oilSaltMethod:Add the coconut oil to a saucepan and put in the chillies and grate in the galangal. You could use ginger root if you don't have any, but the flavour will be stronger.Add a pinch of salt and the spices, then the gooseberries and honey. Stir well and cook on a medium heat until the berries begin to soften and collapse a little.Stir in the cream and remove from the heat.Heat a cast iron sauté pan, score the fish skin and season well. Put the fillets in skin side up. While they are cooking, use a blowtorch to cook the top of the fish, charring it well so it turns black and gold. If you don't have a blowtorch, finish the fish under a hot grill.Let the fish rest for a minute, then serve with the sauce, a few raw, sliced gooseberries, the cress and lemon oil. A crisp green salad with hazelnut oil dressing and some charred baguette slices finish this off perfectly. 

Bass Player

 A warm July Monday morning and I have just deposited the children at school for the day. Peace and an unheard silence start the week and I feel almost a little lost.It's been a busy weekend with the 6th NCT birthday party at a farm in apocalyptic flood rains, a night out at the Southbank including the worst burrito ever from a street food van, making us wonder if they picked the ingredients off the street (and this van was parked outside the restaurant, so God knows what the food was like inside) and then a school friend's sixth birthday party, fortunately nearby and lovely. I honestly don't know how children's entertainers do what they do without needing to sit in a dark room for a day after. He was, actually, more fun than the adult show we saw on Saturday. C'est la vie.So when you start the week feeling broken, cooking can be either therapy or chore. I know it's Monday, and the advice is always that fish is not to be trusted, like a shadowy figure appearing from a dark soho alley after a lost weekend, but I do have some nice sea bass that has been well looked after.Monday, for me is normally a low calorie day, I usually have a light supper as the only food I eat. I'm trying to keep my body from turning into a temple of doom. So here we are with something so simple it almost hurts. But the beauty of this is it's so simple it's amazing.Four main ingredients that take minutes to put together, but the result is light, delicious and healthy and tastes like a rather special treat. Sea bass, mushroom, artichoke (my favourite brand is El Navarrico) and pine nuts. The artichoke, slightly acidic acts like lemon would do with the fish.You can have this on the table in about five minutes. And on a sunny day, you can imagine yourself sitting by the harbour as the fishing boats come in on the clear azure waters of the Mediterranean. Unless you actually are there, in which case, just look around you and imagine yourself in the busy city and smile.Ingredients (for two):Two sea bass filletsA handful of pine nutsA few cooked artichoke hearts eachA head of shimeji or enoki mushrooms (sliced oyster ones will do if not), separated from the baseHalf a clove of garlic, choppedParsley and a  hint of rosemary, choppedOlive oilSalt and pepperMethod:Heat a griddle pan until you can melt rocks on it.Rub some olive oil on the fish skin and season well.Place the fish skin side down on the pan and cook for about 2-3 minutes, until charred with the lines of the griddle and the fish lifts away without tearing.Turn the fish over and add the mushrooms, some more oil, the garlic and pine nuts.Cook for a minute then transfer to a plate. Add the artichoke, mix in a few herbs and serve with black pepper.

For the Chop

It's not often I'll cook pork at home. Or anywhere else for that matter. I'm not a huge fan really, apart from in sausages, which doesn't really count. I just find it pretty dull. Loin, fillet, medallions, snore. Occasionally a chop will appear, but generally I prefer the rest of the pig.So why is there a pork chop recipe here? Because I believe in second chances. Although in porkies case, it's been far more than two chances. This time I've thrown loads of flavour at it and because of it's big, dense meatiness, it can take it.Sweet onions and charred tomatoes with the spicy chilli and chorizo all melting in with the garlic and onion are hearty and satisfying. Here's a twenty minute meal, then, that has saved pork from the chop.Ingredients for two:2 pork chops, preferably bone inA few handfuls of vine on cherry tomatoes10cm chorizo, diced1 red onion, cut into eight wedges2-3 garlic cloves1tbsp dried rosemary1tbsp dried parsleyA handful of radishes, quarteredA couple of green chillies, sliced lengthways2 spring onions, slicedDried onions to garnishOlive oilSalt and pepper to seasonBalsamic vinegar to deglazeMethod:Heat the oven to 180c.Heat some oil in a saute pan and add the onion nd garlic. Cook slowly for about 10-15 minutes, turning occasionally until golden.Sprinkle the rosemary  and parsely over the pork and season well.Add the chorizo and stir well. Cook for . few minutes and add the pork, standing it up on its fatty edge so it browns.Add the tomatoes and sit the pork back down flat.Add the radishes and chilli then drizzle over a little more olive oil.Put the pan in the oven and roast for about 10 minutes.Stir through the spring onion, sprinkle over the dried onions and serve straight to the table.

Eggstatic

A simple one today to serve with an aperitif when you have friends round.You can buy quails' eggs ready hard-boiled and peeled if you like, I often do. To be honest, in this case it's probably easier and less fiddly than boiling and peeling your own.I've done these before with smoked paprika, but today a sprinkle of garam masala took my fancy. Paired with the crunch of pistachio and the fragrance of coriander they went perfectly with some cold ginger beer.Just roll the eggs in the spice mix and drizzle with a little olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. Again, you can use ready-made garam masala or make your own. Depends how much time you have to spare before your guests arrive, which, if like me will be none as we struggle to get the children to bed while only wearing one sock...

Everything's Rosy

I have a vague, dusty memory somewhere of my mum making coconut macaroons. Specifically, the rice paper underneath and the wonder that you could actually eat it.They weren't the delicate Ladurée type, but larger, more like a soft coconut biscuit. They were delicious.I haven't had them for years, and while I was making batch after batch of pink and white macarons for a shoot, I decided to polish the memory and make some of my own.They are a lot more forgiving than the delicate egg white and sugar version, the coconut helps hold the mix together and allows it to keep its shape while it rises. If you're lucky, you should get the prized 'feet', but don't be disheartened if not, they still taste great. They may take just a little practice, but once you get it, you get it.Use rice paper on the base if you like, and feel free to sandwich them together with a chocolate ganache, orange blossom buttercream or something like that. I like the hint of rose with these.Leave them for 24 hours to mature if you can and be warned, they're very moreish. Ingredients:2 egg whites2tbsp caster sugar60g ground almonds100g icing sugarDessicated coconutDried rose petalsMethodWhisk the egg whites until they form stiff peaks then whisk in the caster sugar until glossy.Sieve the icing sugar and almond together into a bowl then gently fold into the egg whites until you have a smooth, batter-like mixture. Stir in a few tablespoons of the coconut and a pinch of some crumbled rose petals, put into a piping bag and pipe four centimetre circles onto a baking sheet lined with greaseproof paper. Whack the tray on the bench to force out any air bubbles. This should prevent them cracking as they rise.Leave to rest for about 30 minutes, until they are no longer sticky. This will make them rise rather than spread.Heat the oven to 150c and bake the macaroons for ten minutes. Leave to cool then gently peel off the paper and store for 24 hours in an airtight container to improve the texture.Sprinkle over the remaining rose petals and serve with cardamom coffee.

Ail Be Back

I seem to be roasting rather a lot at the moment. Maybe it's down to this peculiar summer we're having or perhaps in a counter-intuitive way because I'm busy.As I've mentioned before, letting the oven take care of things is a great way to cook if you need to be getting on with life.I'm not suggesting here that you just eat a load of garlic for supper (although just spread on good bread it makes a pretty good snack) but it can be part of a good spread of charcuterie and salad if you're after something light.I clearly remember the first time I had a whole bulb of roast garlic. At a pub called The George in Alfriston, West Sussex (one of our favourite villages) back when we were footloose and fancy-free. Angels sang, light poured from the heavens and I was enlightened. I've used fresh garlic here, as it's now bursting forth everywhere. It's mellower and milder than the winter stuff but equally interchangeable and delicious in this recipe if you don't have any.Just get a load of garlic, wrap in foil with some thyme and rosemary, drizzle with olive oil and roast for about and hour at 160c. So simple, and the kitchen will smell amazing.

Root One

I suffer from low curry levels if I go more than four days without one. This clearly quite serious situation can result in either a delivery, a trip to Ganapati in Peckham or  a whole, and very enjoyable afternoon crafting a feast of Moghul wedding proportions.Saturday night, however, and I was like the walking dead with tiredness and while we fancied an 'Indian', we weren't really hungry enough for any of the above. This is where my ten minute curry comes in. Freezer and storecupboard combining in perfect symmetry. I even surprised myself with how quick this was. The rice took the longest to cook here, so it's quicker than a delivery too. And you're not left with that slightly dirty feeling afterwards...The fresh turmeric here gives an amazingly vivid flavour. Mush better than dried. And it's so good for you, apparently. This curry is slightly sweet with a nice chilli kick and plenty of spices. Feel free to adjust he chilli as you need. You'll be able to make this quicker than the time it takes to phone your order through.So with normal levels restored we could face the crowds and mud at Glastonbury from the comfort of the sofa. Perfect.Ingredients:Coconut oil1 onion, sliced1bsp ginger puree1tbsp garlic puree3 small green chillies (or fewer)250g shelled tiger prawns1tbsp ground cumin1/2tbsp ground coriander3cm grated fresh turmeric (or 1tbsp dried)1tbsp ground fenugreek1tsp poppy seeds1tsp yellow mustard seeds (I was just throwing things from the spice boxes in by this point, so feel free to stop if you like)1/4 tin of coconut milkSalt and pepper to seasonA squeeze of lemon juiceChopped coriander to serveMethod:Heat a frying pan and soften the onions in some coconut oil then add the purees, chilli and spices. Cook for a few minutes.Grate in the turmeric and add the prawns. Turn the heat up and cook the prawns for a minute until they start to turn pink. Add the coconut milk, season and stir well. Bring the sauce to the boil and reduce the heat to a simmer for about four minutes.Serve with a squeeze of lemon juice and some fresh coriander leaves and a big portion of fluffy basmati rice.

There May Be Truffle Ahead

My friend Roberto, who runs www.trufflestories.co.uk brought me back a few black truffles from L'Isola d'Asti the other day while we painfully wait for the white truffle season to start.Guiliano, the truffle hunter who found these (along with his dog) recommends cooking with the black truffles and saving the white ones for grating over scrambled eggs or shaving them finely onto fresh pasta. So with that in mind, I made a fresh pasta dough the usual way with 400g strong flour, four eggs and two egg whites and grated some truffle into the mix.Hey presto! Ready-made truffle tagliatelle.Chicken is great with truffles, not too overpowering so I made a kind of white coq au vin using prosecco and to finish the dish, some truffle butter poured over it. It's nourishing, comforting and a little luxurious, if you can call scrubbing Italian forest mud off a truffle with a toothbrush luxury.Ingredients:Fresh black trufflePasta dough, as above1 poussin per person2 carrots1 onion1 celery stick1 large glass of prosecco500ml chicken stock60g butterSalt and pepper to seasonMethodSear your poussins in a little oil and set aside. Add the chopped carrot, sliced onion and celery to the pan, season and cook until softened. Pour in the prosecco and reduce a little. Add the poussins and some more shaved truffle (be generous) back to the pan and top up with stock. Cook on  low for about 30 minutes with the lid on.Melt the butter and slice some truffles into it. Leave it to infuse for a bit.Cook the pasta and divide between bowls.Top with some of the veg and the broth, put a poussin in each bowl and pour over thee truffle butter.

Scallops with Celeriac Remoulade

Celeriac makes a great doorstop. If you have some time and patience on your hands (which you must be prepared to shred on the mandoline), a remoulade is another, and tastier way, to use this boulder of a root vegetable.It's earthy celery taste, crunchy against the creamy dressing sit very well with the soft, rich sweetness of seared scallops. I like to add a pinch of chilli and curry spices to liven things up, but you could equally make this with paprika or just simply seasoned with salt and pepper.I've used the zest of a lemon, shredded among the celeriac to give a little zing. Apple and caper would make a welcome appearance if you felt like going a step further. Whatever you do, let the remoulade rest for about half an hour to soften a little before serving simply on toasted sourdough.Ingredients1 celeriac rootJuice and zest of a lemon4tbsp good quality mayonnaise (or homemade if you have the time)2tbsp creme fraiche1tbsp chopped parsley1tbsp chopped chivesSalt and pepper to seasonFor the scallops2 scallops each1tbsp coconut oil or butter for fryingA pinch of curry powder on each scallop1 slice of sourdough per personMethodSet aside the morning to peel the celeriac. Or just use a knife to pare away the skin.Using a mandoline with a fine julienne attachment, shred the celeriac into a bow trying to leave as much skin on your fingers as possible. If you don't have a mandoline, you can grate the root or slice it with a knife, but to be honest, life is too short. Do something else.Mix the shredded root with the lemon juice then stir in the rest of the ingredients and leave to sit for 30 minutes.Heat a griddle pan and toast the sourdough bread with a dash of olive oil and set aside.Heat a sauté pan with the coconut oil, season the scallops and sprinkle with the curry powder. Sear each one for about a minute each side, basting with the oil as you go.Serve the remoulade on the toast topped with the scallops and a pinch of chilli flakes. 

Roast Squash with Juniper, Thyme, Garlic and Paprika

Sometimes it's the little things. The touches here and there that make a meal special. And they don't have to be tricky or crazy, sometimes simple is best.I love the accompaniments that you put together and throw in the oven, letting it do the work for you. That's why I love roasting vegetables to go with weekend lunches, although in this case, with a good loaf of sourdough bread, this could be the lunch itself.I've used cochina squash, but butternut would be fine. One is enough for four people, and as part of a larger meal is probably plenty for six. It goes so well with roast meat, and with a salad or two on the table as well, it's going to be a colourful meal.You can throw whatever spices and herbs you like at a squash and they'll generally work out. I often roast them with garam masala, or just some chilli and cumin, but here I've added juniper, thyme and smoky paprika for a change. And don't forget to roast the seeds as well for a little crunch.  Serve with a slow cooked chicken and roast tomato dish if you fancy. Pile everything on the table and let the hordes dig in.Ingredients1 large squash, cut into six wedges, seeds kept for roasting1tbsp crushed juniper berries1 bulb of garlic, halvedA few thyme sprigs1tbsp smoked paprika1tbsp poppy seedsOlive oil and balsamic to drizzle overSalt and pepper to seasonMethodPut the squash wedges, skin and all (thank God, that saves a job) in a roasting tray and throw over the remaining ingredients. Roast at 180c for about 45 minutes to a n hour and serve in the dish at the table.