steak
Philly Cheesesteaks. One Wiz Wit'
In West Philadelphia, born and raised, on the playground where I spent most of my days. Chilling out, maxing, relaxing all cool, and all shooting some b-ball outside of the school.Of course, times have changed since I was Will Smith back in the late eighties. And to be honest, I've only ever been to Philly once, and my memory of it is a little hazy. I don't even think we went downtown, let alone west.It is, though, where I first met this sandwich and it has now reached an almost mythical status in my mind. I was about 14 when my dad and I went to Philadelphia to stay with family. I have four abiding memories of that trip: waiting in the atrium of the Showboat casino in Atlantic City while my dad very quickly lost some money on the slot machines; eating oyster balls, possibly with horseradish sauce in a seafood restaurant somewhere; recording the local radio station onto a cassette to bring back to England with me and George taking us to an open food truck to eat the famous Philly Cheesesteak. I've never had one since. And seeing as how it's unlikely I'm going to be in Philadelphia for a while, I decided to take matters into my own hands before my desire for one made me do something silly.It seems almost impossible to get the key ingredient here in London, which is Cheez-whiz. I could have it shipped over at ridiculous cost for a jar of sauce, but I'm not stupid. So I made it myself. Sometimes, it's the trashiness and synthetic-ness that gives a dish its special place in your heart. There is a funny subversion in pouring this stuff over a good quality beautiful rib-eye steak. Often the reality will never taste as good as the memory, but that doesn't stop the quest.Thinly sliced. I don't think there can be any room for chunky steaks in a sandwich. And some people like to add mushrooms and green peppers, but that just seems wrong to me and to my Philly family, who do suggest that hot chillies on the side are a good and acceptable addition.And it needs to be juicy. Almost dripping. Cheese sauce and steak juice down the front of your shirt kind of dripping. To be honest, you aren't really going to go far wrong with a good steak sandwich. And if you're ever in Philadelphia, please pick me up a jar of cheez whiz. Sadly I don't think the sandwich would travel well.Ingredients:For the rolls (makes 4, so freeze some):800g flour300ml warm water7g yeast25ml vegetable oil7g saltA pinch of sugar (I used coconut sugar, as usual, but you can use unrefined caster)The steak:No question, it has to be rib-eye. One thick steak will fill a roll and depending on your appetite, you may eat a whole one, or it could feed two. I could only manage half.The 'Cheez Whiz':A large handful of grated mature cheddar. (Some may argue in favour of processed cheese)2tbsp Philadelphia Cheese (natch)2tsp garlic powder2tsp onion powder1tsp mustard powder (I may try a good squeeze of American mustard next time)150ml hot milkFried onions, hot. I used two red ones, sliced thinly, but only because inexplicably I had no white ones left.Method:Make your bread by mixing the dough ingredients together after the yeast has been foamed in a little warm water. Knead for five minutes and leave to rise for about 45.Shape the dough into four long hoagie roll shapes and leave to rise for another 20.Heat the oven to 180c and bake the bread for about 20 minutes. Remove and leave to cool.If you don't want to make your own bread, you can use half baguettes or similar. At to toasting or not, that's up to you, but I don't believe they are.Cook the very well seasoned steak on a searingly hot griddle pan. I use cast iron and I also give it a very good blowtorching as it cooks to help char the fat and give the meat a little flame-grilled edge. Remove from the pan and leave it to rest while you fry the onions in a little oil added to the steak pan and make the sauce.Mix the cheese ingredients together in the food processor and blend until smooth, taking care to not explode hot milk everywhere because the lid wasn't on properly.Thinly slice the steak, load it into the rolls and top with the onion and cheez whiz. Get a few napkins and eat.
Ramen Corner
Before you start, this isn't ramen in the proper ramen way, more of a broth with some things in, one of those things being a beautiful piece of seared sirloin.But as with real ramen, the key is the depth of the stock, so try and use a homemade one full of flavour, and when heating it up for the final dish, add in kombu, plenty of fish sauce, lime and lemon juice. It's quick (well, once you've made the stock), nutritious and rammed with flavour.Ingredients (for two)150g sirloin fillet per person1l chicken stock1 book Choi, halvedA few slices of gingerTwo or three red chilliesA couple of garlic cloves, sliced60g cooked buckwheat noodles (soba)A few sheets of kombu, slicedA handful of coriander leaves2tbsp lime juice2tbsp lemon juice2tbsp fish sauceMethod:Bring the stock to the boil and keep hot.Sauté the garlic and sear the steak, then remove from the pan.Sear the book Choi quickly then add the kombu, lemon, lime and fish sauce to the broth with the chillies, ginger, noodles and garlic.Cook for a minute then put the cooked noodles, bok choi and steak in a bowl and pour over the broth and serve with coriander.
Raising the steaks
Sometimes on the weekend I can spend the afternoon in the kitchen, prepping lots of ingredients and dishes, enjoying the calm of a Saturday or Sunday.Tonight, however, we have many episodes of Trapped to watch so it's a quick steak, grilled and blowtorched with some roast spiced carrots, early season British asparagus and this classic Argentinian accompaniment.It's really just a herb oil, but the chilli and garlic (not the Chilean garlic) give the steak a real lift. And it only takes a couple of minutes to make. Fewer if you use a food processor. It's also really good with monkfish or lobster.
Grilled steak, cucumber and nectarine salad
I get upset if I don't have a salad of some kind on the table every evening. Be it a simple one of baby gem with vinaigrette (my favourite), tomato and shallots with parsley and oil or an onion and cucumber one with my popadoms.These are, mostly, accompaniments to a meal. With a little effort they can be transformed into the main event and satisfy the hungriest appetite. There's no need to be disappointed, especially when there are so many flavours you can add. Panzanella, Som Tam, Kachumba and Caesar salad are some examples that come to mind.This salad uses seared sirloin, cooked with the fat on, then trimmed and thinly sliced. Be careful to not overcook it, you want that bright pink to shine through against the green. The sweet, charred and juicy nectarines go well with the meat and are a real taste of summer. Make sure you taste the dressing as you go, bearing in mind how it balances with the finished dish. It should be nutty, slightly sour and a little sweet.Serves 2Ingredients1 sirloin steak, or rump if you prefer3 spring onions, finely sliced1 red onion, cut into eight wedges2 ripe nectarines, quartered1 cucumber, thinly sliced lengthways on a mandoline1 red chilli, sliced (remove the seeds for a milder heat)1 tbsp quinoa seeds, toastedCoriander leaves, choppedFor the dressing4 tbsp walnut oil1 tbsp Jerez vinegar2 tbsp lime juicea pinch of chilli flakesSaltMethodHeat a grill pan until smoking hot and season the steak with salt and pepper. Cook it for three minutes either side then set aside to rest. Add the red onion to the pan and cook in the juices.Add the nectarines, and while they're cooking, toss the cucumber with the spring onion and chilli. Mix the dressing ingredients together and taste. Adjust as necessary with more lime juice or salt.Thinly slice the steak, add to the cucumber with the peaches and red onion, scatter over the coriander and quinoa then drizzle with the dressing and serve.