Every time someone suggests fish pie to me, or says that's what we're having to eat, I die a little inside. And it's not that there's anything wrong with it, as such. In fact, it's a rather lovely dish. Comforting and rich, and a good way to get lots of fish into people who don't particularly like it.And yet yesterday I woke up with a burning desire, a craving for it. Perhaps Bee, who seems to have a liking of it that doesn't seem normal, has been whispering in my ear repeatedly as I sleep.It is really a very simple dish, and in its favour, you can make it ahead and heat it through for supper, as I did for the children. And, predictably, Noah liked it but tried to pick out the spinach and Maya said she hates prawns (the lunatic). Bee thought it was a bit too saucy and had too much spinach, whereas I, the least enthusiastic fish pie eater thought it delicious. But then I made it.You may squeal with delight at the thought of a fish pie and having made this, I feel a little less antipathy toward it. It's something comforting, tasty and healthy. Do as you will with it. More cod, fewer prawns, not so much spinach, extra scallops, a thicker sauce with a touch more cheese and flour. It's up to you, and that is the joy of cooking, we all like things certain ways and you can't please everyone.This recipe is a good one so I offer it to you to run with. You can even add hard boiled eggs to the mix if you like. And as far as the bonito and kombu go, that's up to you too, as is the golden, warming turmeric and citrussy coriander. But it's little things like that that can make a dish just a little above the ordinary. And actually, looking at the photo reminds me, there's a portion left in the fridge...Serves: 6Prep time: 30-40 minsCooking time: 45 minsIngredientsFor the top:4 medium potatoes such as Maris Piper, skin on, quartered100ml double cream50ml milk70g butterA grating of Parmesan for the topFor the filling:175g Queen scallops250g smoked haddock or cod, cut into chunks250g prawns100g spinachA small bunch of chives, finely slicedA grating of nutmeg1tsp ground turmeric2tsp ground corianderFor the sauce:30g butter30g flour300ml milk25g grated mild cheddarA sheet of kombu (seaweed)A pinch of bonito flakesMethodThe bonito and kombu are optional in this, it's just to give it that extra kick of the sea. But if you're going to use it, heat a little of the milk to just below the boil and pour over them both in a small bowl and leave to infuse while you make the mash.Cook the potatoes in salty, boiling water until soft, but not falling apart. Drain and leave to steam dry in the colander, otherwise, your mash will be to wet.Put the spinach in a heat-proof bowl and pour over some boiling water from the kettle. Stir a little then drain and rinse in cold water. Squeeze dry and chop well.Make the white sauce by melting the butter in a saucepan and mixing in the flour. Season well and gradually whisk in the milk, a little at a time, until you have a smooth white sauce. Add the bonito flakes and milk, leaving out the kombu and then stir in the cheese until melted.Put the fish and seafood in a bowl, add the chopped spinach, turmeric, coriander and the chives (keep back a little for the mash), season well and stir thoroughly. Pour in the white sauce and mix.Heat the butter, cream and milk in a small pan until the butter has melted then rice the potatoes into a bowl and discard the skins. Add the butter mixture, season well and mix until smooth. Stir in the chives.Put the fish mix in an oven dish and top with the potato and any remaining chives. Give a twist of pepper and sprinkle over the parmesan and cook in a 180c oven for about 45 minutes, until the top is golden and bubbling. Garlic green beans are delicious on the side.
cheese sauce
Philly Cheesesteaks. One Wiz Wit'
In West Philadelphia, born and raised, on the playground where I spent most of my days. Chilling out, maxing, relaxing all cool, and all shooting some b-ball outside of the school.Of course, times have changed since I was Will Smith back in the late eighties. And to be honest, I've only ever been to Philly once, and my memory of it is a little hazy. I don't even think we went downtown, let alone west.It is, though, where I first met this sandwich and it has now reached an almost mythical status in my mind. I was about 14 when my dad and I went to Philadelphia to stay with family. I have four abiding memories of that trip: waiting in the atrium of the Showboat casino in Atlantic City while my dad very quickly lost some money on the slot machines; eating oyster balls, possibly with horseradish sauce in a seafood restaurant somewhere; recording the local radio station onto a cassette to bring back to England with me and George taking us to an open food truck to eat the famous Philly Cheesesteak. I've never had one since. And seeing as how it's unlikely I'm going to be in Philadelphia for a while, I decided to take matters into my own hands before my desire for one made me do something silly.It seems almost impossible to get the key ingredient here in London, which is Cheez-whiz. I could have it shipped over at ridiculous cost for a jar of sauce, but I'm not stupid. So I made it myself. Sometimes, it's the trashiness and synthetic-ness that gives a dish its special place in your heart. There is a funny subversion in pouring this stuff over a good quality beautiful rib-eye steak. Often the reality will never taste as good as the memory, but that doesn't stop the quest.Thinly sliced. I don't think there can be any room for chunky steaks in a sandwich. And some people like to add mushrooms and green peppers, but that just seems wrong to me and to my Philly family, who do suggest that hot chillies on the side are a good and acceptable addition.And it needs to be juicy. Almost dripping. Cheese sauce and steak juice down the front of your shirt kind of dripping. To be honest, you aren't really going to go far wrong with a good steak sandwich. And if you're ever in Philadelphia, please pick me up a jar of cheez whiz. Sadly I don't think the sandwich would travel well.Ingredients:For the rolls (makes 4, so freeze some):800g flour300ml warm water7g yeast25ml vegetable oil7g saltA pinch of sugar (I used coconut sugar, as usual, but you can use unrefined caster)The steak:No question, it has to be rib-eye. One thick steak will fill a roll and depending on your appetite, you may eat a whole one, or it could feed two. I could only manage half.The 'Cheez Whiz':A large handful of grated mature cheddar. (Some may argue in favour of processed cheese)2tbsp Philadelphia Cheese (natch)2tsp garlic powder2tsp onion powder1tsp mustard powder (I may try a good squeeze of American mustard next time)150ml hot milkFried onions, hot. I used two red ones, sliced thinly, but only because inexplicably I had no white ones left.Method:Make your bread by mixing the dough ingredients together after the yeast has been foamed in a little warm water. Knead for five minutes and leave to rise for about 45.Shape the dough into four long hoagie roll shapes and leave to rise for another 20.Heat the oven to 180c and bake the bread for about 20 minutes. Remove and leave to cool.If you don't want to make your own bread, you can use half baguettes or similar. At to toasting or not, that's up to you, but I don't believe they are.Cook the very well seasoned steak on a searingly hot griddle pan. I use cast iron and I also give it a very good blowtorching as it cooks to help char the fat and give the meat a little flame-grilled edge. Remove from the pan and leave it to rest while you fry the onions in a little oil added to the steak pan and make the sauce.Mix the cheese ingredients together in the food processor and blend until smooth, taking care to not explode hot milk everywhere because the lid wasn't on properly.Thinly slice the steak, load it into the rolls and top with the onion and cheez whiz. Get a few napkins and eat.